My 3U Audio Black CM1 seems to have some sort of grounding issue and I've contacted Guosheng who says I can try tightening the bottom nut but I'm not having any luck getting the bottom part to turn. I don't know if there's some trick to it or if it just needs really good grip strength. Any help?

Have you tried loosening it first? I've had grounding issues like this with my MXLs when I've screwed the base on too tight. I would try to unscrew the silver bottom part, then try different levels of tightness.

I can't get it to move in either direction. I've unscrewed a couple mics before so I know how the bottom should come off but because the base won't move I can't tighen or loosen it.

Check out how an AKG P220 opens, those are weird.

Send it back if still under warranty...

So this issue has actually reappeared for me, but it only happens when the headbasket is moved to a certain position. Obviously the headbasket shouldn't shift unless the mic is disassembled and the screws are loosened. So when the headbasket is shifted/turned slightly left the mic will buzz when I touch it or the aluminum shock mount it's in. The buzzing ONLY happens when I touch the mic. I'm currently waiting on a response from Guosheng. Honestly this problem doesn't bug me since I know how to avoid it, but I'm planning to upgrade mics soon after which I'll probably want to sell the CM1. Not because it's a bad mic because it's a great mic, but because I probably won't use it.

Anyone know what could cause the headbasket to shift, or the base of the mic to not move, and why it would only buzz when I touch it while the headbasket is shifted? My guess for the base and headbasket is just improper assembly, unless the bottom ring isn't meant to come off (which I doubt since it would make repair take longer).

Assuming my warranty is still valid (I haven't opened the mic or dropped it, and always use it with a wind screen or pop filter so no moisture damage, and I've only had the mic for 6 months) I'll send it in if it doesn't cost me too much to ship it.

I'm not sure why you're having these grounding issues. The body of your mic seems to be messed up. I'm sure GZ will resolve it somehow.

What mic are you upgrading to?

Not quite sure yet. Considering a Warbler MKID though. Or if I just save for a while I might get a C414 XLS, or maybe an AT4047, though I'll be looking for the latter two used. Though I think the higher end stuff will appreciate a quality dedicated preamp though. It'll be a bit before I get a new mic anyway, but I'm starting a new job soon so I'll be saving up to buy quality gear.

I'm pretty much just looking at relatively neutral multipattern mics.

The Warbler I isn’t going to be a whole lot different than your CM-1, with the W1 being little more rolled off in the high end I feel like. I would keep your mic, or see if GZ will replace it since it’s been giving you issues. Did GZ email you back?

The Warbler IV is very similar to the C414 in the mids and bottom end. They both have a more air, than the Warbler I. The W4 in Voice 2 in cardioid is about as neutral as it gets, while an XLS is going to be a hair brighter. A used one is still twice the price of a W4. My friend has a B-ULS pair, and my W4 pair is very similar. The B-ULS has a tiny dip around 1-2k compared to the W4 in my comparison.

Yeah I'll see if I can get a replacement or get it repaired. So far we've been looking at stuff like tightening parts (with permission) but the base of the mic doesn't turn which is why I suspect it might have been tightened too much at assembly and the threading was stripped. Since I haven't been able to actually open it my warranty shouldn't be voided. My only concern is calculating shipping with UPS says that it'll be near $130 to ship. That's assuming it's going to the city listed on the website.

I might also try some DIY stuff and keep the CM1 as a back up mic or good single pattern mic. I really like the sound of the C12 and U47 mods for the Chinese tube mics like the Apex and Nady ones, though I may just end up looking at AA or 3U tube mics, or I may look at iSK's tube mics though almost all of iSK's microphones have similar frequency plots which I'm assuming is one of the reason Kris only carries certain ones.

Have you had a chance to try the Warbler IV’s on drum overheads?

If you want a tube mic, check out Barbaric Amplification. Chris is finishing a custom tube mic for me. His website and facebook page have some pictures and descriptions of some of his builds for people. He's a really cool guy.

There's a used Stellar at Guitar Center right now. It says CM6, but it looks like a CM5. I would jump all over that if I wasn't already having a mic being built. CM5's already have a RK-12 capsule and transformer upgrade.

No, I haven't. My band is still looking for a drummer. Hopefully soon I can try that out. They do sound amazing as a spaced pair on acoustic guitar.

Thanks. I've recorded drums with the CM1 Teals which are a lower quality transformerless mic but voiced similarly to the Warbler IV's. I'm looking for an alternative to 414's so I'm thinking the Warbler III or Warbler IV or GZ12 might be a good option.

BTW I've got Barbaric building me a custom mic right now too.

I don't think you can go wrong with any 3U edge-terminated capsule mic as an alternative to a C414. The Teals always sound really good to me in various clips I've heard too.

I got the problem fixed. I just had to tighten the base while wearing some textured rubber gloves. I couldn't even tell that the base was loose because it sits over the bottom of the body as I guess the base is designed to screw on super, super tight.

Nice! I'm glad you figured it out.

I just got a pair of Black CM1s, and one of them arrived with a loose headbasket similar to what you described here, Dohreetoh.

However, I'm definitely a bit of a microphone newbie, so just wondering exactly what parts I need to tweak here and how much force I should be using, since I don't want to be damage anything.
I haven't contacted Guosheng yet, but I will if that seems recommended.

Thanks in advance!

Put on a pair of rubber gloves and tighten the gray nut at the bottom.