Hi to all!!!
Recently I buy a Soundtracs topaz 24 for my recording studio.
Before install, I want to refurb\upgrade it to obtain the maximum sonic quality.
I have some ideas, but I don't know if all are workable. In order:

- power supply replacement
- preamp replacement with BB opamps in channel strip
- Replace SSM2017 with Jim williams upgrade module
- Adding input trafo on mic input
- replace IC's in master section with better ones (AD797 or, why not, burson audio)
- adding output trafo on master output
- Adding selection freq on Hi and low eq band

All this mods are quite expensive in terms of money and time: what in your opinion are the most important?
I know that probably I can buy a better console with the same money that I'll spend for the mod, so I want to clarify that I want to do this work for the fun to do it, and because I like to mod and improve my equipment.

One great prject about this console is to remove all EL capacitor using DC servo circuits. I don't know if this is a stupid\doable idea, but I'm really interested in this kind of circuit.

I want to give thanks to everyone that can help me in this project!!!!!!
Every comment is welcome!!!

Regards
Luca

You should have got my Triton instead...

Just kiddin Luca, and nice to see you here. I used to have a Topaz and found it usable and lovely, especially the EQs. Good luck with it.

Congrats on your board.

I have one, and you are probably aware that it comes factory set at -10db. You have to use a blob of solder on the ins/outs to do the +4 mod. It takes longer to pull the thing apart than to do the soldering mods.

Before putting the console back together, double check the ground connection and tighten it up; it'll act like a faulty power supply if that greenwire is loose. I actually used a couple of lockwashers along with the lug/wire and screw/nut because I thought the stock connection was inadequate.

If you have the meterbridge, you'll note the LEDs don't read exactly as they should around red line. I read somewhere (can't remember if it was on an audio board of if Steve Malginick emailed me but at any rate), there was a simple resistor swap mod in the meterbridge to get the LEDs to react as they should. Unfortunately, I never had a chance to look that information up a second time so I never did the mod.

I've never did any of the mods you suggested. The pre's and Eqs are fairly impressive so I never felt the need to upgrade. There are some things I don't like about the board, such as busses are preassigned, etc but for the $650 I paid NOS including meterbridge, I can't complain.

Please keep me in the loop on the mods - I'm EXTREMELY interested!

Good luck!

DY

Don't mess with it. It sounds good on its own already.

You could perhaps use transformers to turn the outputs into balanced, but that's even unnecessary IMO.

B.

Yes, forgot to point the -10 + 4 mod out. That is probably the most important thing if you want to interface the board to any professional outboard. It took me one afternoon to did it. Fairly simple. The meters are close to useless but gets you in the ballpark. Compared to a Mackie or Behringer or small Soundcraft, the Topaz is a much better mixer as far as sound goes. It's still a small project studio board so no modularity and all the other good stuff that big and heavy studio mixers give you, but it's a very nice board and you can do plenty with it.

PS: Luca, when my friend bought the Triton he was coming from a Topaz that I sold him a few months before. We were both happy about it, I had just swicthed to a D&R 4000 so I sold my Topaz to him, and he was looking for a bigger and more impressive mixer for clients hence why he put it in the trade for the Triton, but the sound of the board was not a problem for both of us...

No prob Luca. She's doin good, loaded up all the channels in the frame and I got 24 fully functional right now. Yesterday I swapped rooms in my studio, moved the control room to the big room and now am using the old control room as a booth for drums and amps. Sounds good so far...

Thanks to all!!!!
I'm really happy to know that many people are satisfied using this console.
I have tried it, and I think that it has a good sound and nice features, with all you need to work inside it. I don't like the LF and HF eq, but I have to try more...
Routing is not the best I've seen, but is ok for my needs.
Surely I'll do the -10/+4 mod as first, so I have to disassemble the console.
I want to profit by this moment to do the mods...Surely i want to replace Power supply with a bigger one (and bring it out of the console).
Reading tha schematics I' hae seen that the channels are quiter simple to mod,
What is, in your opinion, the weak point of the console?
Thanks again to all!!!!
Regards
Luca

It's a nice little sounding little board for what it is.

If you got this used, the board may already have the -10/+4 mod already done to it. If you haven't done so already, join the soundtracstopaz : Soundtracs Topaz group and look in the Files section for scans of the manual which describe the mod (it used to be there anyway).

Jim Williams (Audio Upgrades) over the years has graciously posted a few upgrades tidbits to this particular board to help newbie DIY'ers like us (thanks, Jim!):

1. Do a search on his opinions on the power rails and upgrade to the power supply. That's probably one of the big weaknesses of the console.

2. Jim says, "You can try out the BB's [BurrBrown opamps], but you will need a scope to determine if the opamps are stable. Adding some .1 uf mono ceramic caps from the opamp's power pins to ground is helpful. I've redone this console with LT1358's for the duals and LT1359's for the quads. Increase the coupling caps. Bypass with polyprop film caps and you will have air."

3. Jim clarifies with, "I used mostly either Panasonic FM, Nichicon HE or Rubycon Z or Black Gates. All require a film bypass cap. Try the LT1358 against those others. Like when your ears pop after landing in a jet. LM6172 is very good but somewhat tougher to stabilize."

Now, he's not going to give away his mods he does for his clients, but he graciously points us newbies in the right direction. (Thanks, Jim!)

I've done the mods to my Soundtracs with the LT IC's and they really open up and quiet down the signal path.

If you want to do one mod on that console, then remove that transformer in the meterbridge out into a break-out box.

I had also modded all the auxes to be post-fader, for I almost never needed pre-fade sends in my workflow.

I no longer have that board but if I came across to one now, I would buy it in a heartbeat, despite its lack of headroom.

By the way, you get the best sound out of it if you push the meters to red

B.

Thanks to all.
Only a few question:
-Where I can fins LT's opamps for a good price?
-What you mean for "bypass cuopling caps"?

LT1358:
Linear - Amplifiers - Instrumentation, OP Amps, Buffer Amps | Digi-Key

LT1359:
Linear - Amplifiers - Instrumentation, OP Amps, Buffer Amps | Digi-Key

I buy them directly from Linear Technology's website. Cheaper than Digikey, as long as you've got Visa/Mastercard.

Thanks again to all!!!!
I've scheduled the mod:
1) PW Supply upgrade with High quality linear power supply +\-16V 2A
2) Master section upgrade (with????)
3) Channel upgrade (from 1 to 8) with LT's opamp
4) Channel upgrade (from 9 to 16) with BB's opamp

After this I'll post some comparative samples...I want your opinion!!!!!!!

See you soon!!!!!!!

Don't replace the TL074's that are controlling the switching FETs. You will gain nothing sonically and throw money away for nothing. There is one in each channel and atleast one in the Master section.

Many thanks!!!!!

Every suggest is welcome!!!!

as mentioned above Studio Systems - The home where the Soundtracs roam has some great info and tim is a top bloke. good luck with the mods and please keep us up to date!

cheers, jeremy

Put a small value cap in parallel to the existing high value coupling cap.

B.

-What value you suggest?
-What kind of capacitor?

Thanks!!!

any progress luca? hope it's going well .. my soundtracs solo needs some TLC ..

cheers, jeremy

Hi Jeremy
Thnks for your interest.

I'm waiting for two acopian power supply: +\-15v and 48v.
Today I have received the BB opa.

I think that next week I'll have mod the first 8 channels (only fornt end:from min input to direct out)

I'll post some comparative tracks of drum, el\acustic guitar and voice.
If anyone need other instrument or has any suggest, please ask, I'll be happy to do it if I can!!!!.Regards
Luca

any updates on this one?

I just purchased myself a 24:8 Topaz Project 8 without the PSU (it would probably be replaced anyway. Haven't been able to test the console, but for the price I paid, I don't mind.

I'd like to hear comparisons between the BB's/LT's/and the stock opamps.

I'm putting together a game plan as to how to build this console to its full potential.

So far I got 1) New PSU(s)--how much is overkill? 2) Recapping (referring to some Jim Williams advice) 3) Opamp replacement though that will depend on if I'm satisfied with the sound after the first steps. I'm trying to see if the opamp swap would be cost effective.

Sorry for the slight thread hi-jack. I hope the console is coming along nicely.

I'm kinda surprised to see how many people like this console. I used to own one and thought it was awful. The low end was flabby butt mud and the high end was harsh like nails on a chalkboard. Not to mention it's a giant pcb under the panel...makes any mods a serious pain in the ass.
The only mod I can recommend for this console: sell it and buy something else. Preferably something modular if you're into the modding thing. Not trying to be a killjoy, but that's my honest opinion.

What speakers were you listening to when you had the Soundtracs?

Get em Mr. Gerst. thumbsup

Naw, I'm just curious because it sounds like he's describing the problems with a speaker system rather than the board. We own a Topaz 32x8 and we don't have those problems with it. We also own an MC!556D and an SSL 4048G+, so it's not like we're novices; we know decent sound.

The same speakers I'm still using with the highly modified Soundcraft 1600 that I have now. The difference is night and day - no more flabbiness on the lows, and the highs don't make me cringe.
And when I listen back to mixes done on the two consoles on different speakers (consumer stereos, car stereos, other people's monitors), the difference is consistent between mixes done on either console. In other words, the muddiness and harshness from the Topaz is not isolated to my monitors.

Look I'm not trying to get into an argument here with you. If you had great results with the Topaz, that's great! I'm just telling you my experience with it. I didn't think it was a good sounding console. That's why I sold it and bought an old console to gut and rebuild. (another gripe I had with the Topaz - extremely unfriendly to mods as you have to take apart the whole chassis to get at the pcb. I do as much tech work as engineering work and I enjoy tinkering with everything I own.) It's so lovely to be able to just pull out a single channel, tweak it, plug it back in, and directly compare the results of the mods - all in about as much time as it takes just to disassemble the Topaz chassis.

But if you've had a different experience using the Topaz, more power to ya! I wasn't insinuating that you don't know good sound, btw. Just relaying my experience with a piece of gear, that's all.


Why is the modus operandi around here to gang up on people that simply say what they think? As I said in my first post, I was just stating my opinion (and it's one formed from actually owning and using the piece in question, which is more than alot of people on this forum can say about the comments they make about gear!). Why do I need to be "got" for simply having a differing opinion?

That's why my question was based purely on curiosity, not any attempt to discredit you, or your opinion. No argument intended. I pointed out our other boards we have not to defend my position, but to clarify the fact that it's not the only board we've ever use. As you pointed out, many people will disparage a piece of gear without even hearing or owning the stuff.

I apologize if my question came across as hostile; that was never my intent. I was just curious as to what monitors you were using. Maybe your Soundcraft board is a better match for them than the Topaz.

No worries, I didn't take your question as hostile. It was more the other guy telling you to "get me" that got under my skin. Glad you and I are able to discuss a difference of opinion in a civil way. Seems to hardly ever happen in this forum.