hey guys!

you think this is usable or a waste of time?

cheers

It's probably usable, but you can get a nice analog scope for € 50 and having two channels is really useful.

Another thing abot GSSL ... the sidechain circuit is simpler/different than SSL. If you want similar behaviour, you need to add the "turbo PCB".

would be using software just as good or not advisable?

yeah, i thought so after doing a lot of reading.

i'll finish what i have first. i can always ad the "turbo pcb" later from what i understand...!?

thanks

You can use software and audio interface as a function generator, but for scope, you'd still have to buy a special interface. Considering that you can get a used scope for the same price, I wouldn't bother with software.
Yes, I think that it shouldn't be a problem.

once more:

on the component list it says "2x15V secondaries power transformer".
is it important to use a spicific one or could i use this for example!?


thanks so far guys

Looks fine...quite a bit more power than you need.

Gustav

About the mods, having built the various incarnations (including a gold can version), I feel differences are grossly overstated at times. I have mails from people who have the impression that the turbo mod changes it from a mono to a stereo compressor, or splits the side chain into two. The reality is, the summing is done differently which gives a different center image weight, but also a difference width. It is still summed - its a stereo-only unit.

If you're doing sane amounts of compression, the whole double SC/turbo mod combo is, imo, overkill. The center weight will not carry that much "weight". If you are doing insane amounts of compression, you may/may not care, since you're going for a smashed sound anyway, but I regress.

I made a tricked out version. Its called the MS VECA. You can adjust the weight of the center image adjustable M/S mix knob going into the side chain. You can have the turbo and unmodded and four other settings on the switch if you like.

https://pcbgrinder.com/index.php?rou...product_id=193

Gustav

Thanx. I have trouble about some component sizes. The molex connector for example.
Can you provide some details?

and another thing, is there a possible error in the component list?
it says:

Capactiors
4 pcs 100uF
4 pcs 100uF
15 pcs 22uF


i'm pretty sure you meant something else with the second time "4 pcs 100uF". those would be the four "big ones" on the picture i believe. i didnt buy them cause they werent on the list.

Best
Ilan


PS the pcb is almost populated - YAY

Hi Ilan.

Rather than using a thread on GS as our own, private chatroom, I would prefer it if you sent me a mail or used the help thread on groupdiy.com.

And since this is DIY, which should ideally put some power into your hands, I have to say, you can answer the two questions yourself with not so much effort.

First would mean measuring or just using wire instead.
Second would demand checking the silk screen on the PCB or the schematic for the values.
(Sorry, this is right at hand, hence the "Teach a man to fish" reply).

Gustav

Yeah you're right. But I'm so eager to get this thing done and I'm very impatient

In addition I just lak the basic knowledge which is quite painful.

I used the contact for Germany on your website. He was very helpful and answered all questions.

I'll have learned a LOT when I'm done with this thing

Merry Christmas everyone

Basel Hayden's will do nicely.

Basel Hayden's will do nicely.

Basel Hayden's will do nicely.

Whoop whoop!
I got all the parts except for the VU Meter.
I'm gonna finish it over the holidays. Yaaaay. Excited.

Well of course the electronic guy forgot to pack some of the ICs....
But I'm done soldering. Yay.
Assembling tomorrow.

Although I'm disappointed like a kid who didn't receive any Christmas presents I'm still excited about firing it up tomorrow!

Finished it. Sounds great. Me happy.
Happy new year Slutz

reading this thread has filled me with optimism, as i too am a novice planning a GSSL build!

i have a question about the soldering iron. i see people talking about ones with variable temperature, i've never used one that fancy. i have this one :

http://www.antex.co.uk/soldering/pre...ng-irons/cs18/

do i need to get a better one?

exciting times ahead

From what I've soldered since now...
I think any halfway decent will do.
The built was quite easy to do. You'll need some more stuff though...

more stuff, i'm guessing you mean clamps and stands? i have all that coming :D

i'm slightly terrified that this might take over my life haha

I dont know what 18W irons are designed for, but they have nowhere near enough heat for board work IMO. I used Weller stations for years but over £200 is a stretch for the odd bit of DIY work, have had one of these for a coupla years now, works great:

60W Mains LCD Solder Station | Maplin

Sniff around for a deal, I got mine for £40. They use standard Hakko tips which are widely available.

thanks for taking the time to respond

please work under the assumption i'm a complete novice, my previous soldering experience has thus far been the odd audio cable and bypassing a fuse in my old citroen.

what kind of temperature should i be operating at when soldering on boards? presumably there is such a thing as 'too hot'?

NP, always happy to teach soldering, although its much easier sat at the same bench

Yeah, too hot for too long and the flux will all boil off before its had a chance to do its thing, weird alloys can even start forming at extremes. Double the MP of the solder is a good rule of thumb, so for 60/40 (183°C) or Sn62 (179°C) I have my iron set to 365°C. If you have to use lead free (yuk!) then check its MP (usually ~220°C).

With enough heat (Watts) and decent size tips you will learn to work fast!

Hi, do you have ANY idea where to download Softube Plug-Ins (VST AAX 64-bit) 2.1.59 Setup.exe? I'm trying to get the tube saturation knob without installing every plugin. Just thought I'd throw this at you. There's a way to use 7zip but you have to have this file first. Can't find it.

Thanks,
Kenny

fantastic! thanks for your help

final question for the time being - can anyone recommend some boards i can buy to practice with. you know, before i go melting some expensive stuff

I just took an old remote control...

^ This is a great tip, practice on some junk electronics. Anything oldish with a through-hole board. Buy a solder sucker and some desoldering braid (both cheap) and remove then resolder everything from a board one component at a time. Keep going until it looks good, you'll get a good feel for your iron and solder.

And use ventilation - the lead isn't too bad for you but the flux fumes are very nasty indeed.

As for projects to practise on I'd just jump right in with something you need, PCBs are usually the cheapest part of DIY outboard, its the cases, meters, trafos, pots and switches which are costly.

New project:


Ordered two of these.

^

A GSSL, 2 U76s and a couple of pimped LA500As will cover a lot of bases, and cost a fair bit less than a single distressor. Tempting eh?

nice one, thanks for the tips everyone