Ok, thanks a lot. It's probably something I'd like to do myself, but I've never done one before so I'll have to research it. No rush, a job for a rainy day. However, if I get stuck I'll certainly PM you about the contact. Thanks!

Looks fine, Web 1.0 is underrated. Good job.

Really good track.

Photo DIY for replacing a broken key on an Alpha Juno-1 or Alpha Juno-2
Roland Alpha Juno 1 and 2 Keyboard Replacement


If all else fails....

Sorry I don't. And I don't have anything I can scan and put up either for this one. Normally, I do make notes on various jobs I do but I must have thought this was easy to do so I didn't bother. Bear in mind though, this is what I do for a living so I often do jobs without having to think about it too much.

I really should write all this stuff down and publish it before I get run over by a bus or some such thing.

Tony

No worries, sure I'll work it out when I come to it. If there's no info out there maybe I'll make a small blog about it. Either that or I'll just put a new foil in, the screen works fine, just a bit dim. Given I rarely look at it and use the virtual PG-300 to edit it, it's not exactly urgent. But fixing the middle C is (!) so next time it's apart I might do the screen at the same time

Thanks a lot for creating this site.
I love the Alpha Junos. I have owned 3 Juno 1's, 1 Juno 2 and 2 PG-300.
Still have a AJ-1 and a PG-300.

Cheers

That's some serious Juno usage
and... You're welcome!

Francos... I took your advice and added support on my webpage for the HS-10 and HS-80.
I didn't know much about these but I've learned a lot more in the last two days.

Sweet!

Once again... great idea Jojjelito!
I did the mod on my MKS-50 and MKS-70 this evening

• It's a 1 for 1 swap
• No case modification
• No sheet metal to cut
There's even a pre-drilled hole in the case for the ground wire.
Just piggy-back onto one of the screw holes from the serial number plate.
Easy! Total cost was 65 cents and some green wire I already had.
I'm now free of the dreaded, "always missing, proprietary 2-Prong cable curse"

MKS-50 SYNTHESIZER HOMEPAGE

Very simple and no need for a DIY guide. All you need is a picture;

This must have been US/Japan models only, then. My JU-1 already has a typical 3-pin IEC socket.

Very pleased to see the Alpha getting some love in this thread, btw. OPs website is a great resource. I need to change the battery on my JU-1 someday...

Maybe it was different in the UK, or your JU-1 was already modded by a previous owner? I've seen a few Junos and MKS boxes here in Sweden with the oddball 2-prong socket.

Anyway, I'm happy to see that the OP and others have successfully made the conversion to a current standard socket. Please remember to be careful when dealing with mains voltage and its connections! I would insulate the VAC connections with electrical tape, or use crimping, cable shoes and cable ties to minimize the risk if and when something might break loose.

hi folks, having some problems setting up my novation remote sl 25 as a controller for alpha juno 2..

patch editing works as it supposed to, with MIDI out from novation to MIDI in on AJ.

the problem is, when i connect my electribe esx MIDI out to Novation MIDI in, and Novation MIDI thru to AJ, i can't do patch editing from the novation..

my AJ receives on midi channel 2 with omni on, and midi EXCLUSIVE turned on.

how to transmit what comes via midi in to the midi thru port

Visited this site made me do a happy wee

Thanks for the plug info. The juno is a great synth imo. I know its abit limited and the filter isn't as resonant as others but i really love this synth. Imo it does some sounds the other junos can't. I'll prob get flamed but other than the arps on the other junos i think the ////\lph/\\\\ rules.

A little off the beaten path but I have a chance to buy an alpha juno 2 for around $400.00 and a Roland D50 for the same price. They both are in really good condition. Which would make a better midi controller? Are keys better on one than the other? I've never owned either one of them but they both sound great in demos. I only have the cash for one of them right now and I need a good controller as my main board is an Akai mpk88 which isn't thebest for synth playing.

I can't speak for the D-50, but the aftertouch on most of the Alpha Junos is generally broken at this point. (Mine is not functional) It is not a super expensive fix, but it should be considered when choosing it as a MIDI controller.

Both have the same key bed and it's a good quality mechanism. I think both have the same aftertouch although the D-50 has a front panel control to alter the sensitivity. Neither of them will probably have a working aftertouch - or at least, working as it should be. It's not an easy fix on either in most cases.

Both keyboards also send the dreaded 'all notes off' (message CC123) when you take your hands off the keys. Many non Roland synths, particularly newer softsynths, treat this as 'all sounds off' and silence the notes prematurely. You'll probably have to filter this with a midi filter box or app (I use midiox) so you can play most other synths.

The other thing that puts off a lot of folk using either synth as a midi controller is that is has the early Roland bender lever rather than separate pitch and modulation wheels. I like it better than wheels but I seem to be in the minority.

FWIW I have a AJ-2 as a master keyboard and I love it.

Tony

Thanks junglebrah/synthbuilder

I'll have to check the aftertouch. It wouldn't be a deal killer though. I just wish they had more physical knobs and sliders but I would rather have good keys more than anything.

Someone was actually asking this same question on the first page. My detailed answer is here. Aside from the already-mentioned aftertouch issue, it really depends on what kind of CC1 control you like, and what sort of velocity response.

Haven't tried any of the iPad editors yet, there's a few of them. But I recently installed Ctrlr with the MKS50 panel, its pretty sweet you can control everything from the plugin.


.

Hi everyone,

I've done the 3-prong mod as well, went perfectly.

Next, I want to change the voltage from 117v to 240v. I have the service manual and know that I need to desolder / solder a wire but I cannot for the life of me work out which wire. If you look at the fuse board the middle pin on the right has the following options printed:

BLU 100v
GRN 117v
BRW 220v
RED 240v

Currently there is a Green wire solded to the pin.

Does anyone know what I need to solder to make it 240v? there is no red wire, or 'red' printed anywhere other than the middle pin (that I can see).

Cheers

p.s I cannot add a link to my fuseboard pic, however it is exactly the same setup as the picture in the post above for the 3-pin mod.

Thanks a lot Gnalvl

Great tips. Just what I was looking for.

Totally OT but does anybody else have to bang on the JU-2 keys really hard to get full velocity?

Great site BTW!

I don't think it can be done.
The transformers for 110/117VAC and 220V/240V have different part numbers and the Fuse PCB is also a different part number.
If there is no red wire, it probably means the red wire you need is on a different transformer... the one needed for operating at 240V.

Mine hums. Wonder if i should replace the power supply. I guess if it aint broke...

I use the ipg800 editor for ipad. It has a pg300 editor built in. Pretty much identical to the pg300 except, you know, no physical sliders. But it works perfectly. I don't use it when i am sequencing, i just use it to make patches.

It's most likely the screen backlight inverter.Really annoying.

Thanks for your reply. I had read elsewhere on the forum that all Rolands can be changed by routing a wire differently, so I guess our MKS-50 is the exception to the rule.

If any of you guys with the 240v version has the case open, can you upload a picture of the fuse board / transformer wiring

Cheers