That's awesome! This is some good advice for the future maintenance of all the JP's out there.

Also, I'd suggest giving the area where the leakage happened a good cleaning with alcohol and an acid brush in case the fluid is corrosive.

How weird....I just dusted off my jp8000 today before reading this and sure enough the volume is almost non existent and farty....I am going to send my unit in for repair along with a link to this thread...

I had the same issue with my JP. I have been hunting the internet for days. Mostly referring back to this forum. A good friend of mine is an electrical design engineer and has been helping me look through these threads and schematics to isolate the issue. Just by reviewing the service manual and these threads he came to the conclusion that there are 2 or 3 suspect capacitors. Number 1 on his list was C219. My plan was to replace it today and hope it worked. After seeing these new posts for today he was happy that his hunch was correct but sad that he could not have delivered the news. This is a great synth and I am so glad we have isolated the problem. Unfortunately now we will start seeing less of these on eBay for cheap. Oh well. Just glad we can all have our JP's back up and running. It is my first real synth that I bought in 99 or 00 and it is still one of my favorites, despite its large group of haters out there. Just FYI. The other suspect CAPS were C187, 189, and 101. He also says that based on this a quick dirty fix may be just to cut the MUTE wire. This may lead to some big pops or other weird sounds on start up but would probably eliminate the issue. Although he did say he probably would not recommend this but could definitely help you isolate the issue directly to the MUTE circuit. Of course while we all mused at possible solutions "Yueshuya" told us exactly to replace the CAPs in the muting circuit. Good job everyone. You may have saved a ton of JP's from the landfill.

Glad I could help! It's amazing to think that one single small component can screw up a synth so badly, and be so difficult to diagnose! Enjoy your resurrected JP!

Wow, that's uncanny that he reached the conclusion at the same point in time! Haha, I'm glad I beat him to it. I hope to be heralded as the JP saviour in future!

Hopefully this means that the JPs in this world will survive a few more decades into the future! Great synth, sad that it's tarred with the trance brush so often and dismissed. Although it's not got massively deep programming scope compared to the AN1x or the Blofeld, it's a real performer's instrument with a fantastic UI and a stupendous, rich sound!

Is this a common issue and does it affect the JP-8080 as well?

Seems to be fairly common, have seen a few on eBay for spares/repairs reporting the same fault. The keyboard is approacing 20 yeats old now, and it seems like users of the XP-50, which is a similar age, have reported a similar issue. Never heard of it affecting the 8080, in fact I read somewhere that Roland used higher quality caps for that.

All Hail Nismology for saving our JP's... Yes the trance haters can't seem to get past what was the ubiquitous sound of late 90's and early 00's trance. But we should probably not tell everyone it is a great all around synth or the price will go up and I was still thinking of purchasing a 2nd one. ;P Thanks again for the thread. I have never been part of a forum before. Read plenty of them but never replied. This issue had just pushed me to become involved. LOL.

This is great news. Not heard of a fix for this issue before.

I was using two JP-8000 and a JP-8080 at one point, but largely replaced them with an Access Virus for practical reasons. I still think the JP-8000 is one of the best sounding VA synths though. I find the PWM is slightly nicer than on the Virus resulting in lusher pads and I find it more immediate and fun to use. I've been reluctant to completely let go of the JP-8000 for those reasons. I have one in storage and I have been almost too nervous to get it out in case it has developed this issue. At least I know how to go about fixing it now if it has developed the problem. I'm sure many will now be saved. Great synth. It deserves to live on.

Ok confirmed yet again. Relaced CAP C219. Used a through hole part cut short and carefully soldered then bent over. Works perfect. Easy fix 10 minutes. Look at service manual for location. Also printed on main board. Was too excited during fix to take pictures but this worls great. 100% thanks to all.....

thx for the info! my jp8000 has an output issue, but only until it warms up…then it works fine. i just leave it powered-up. pretty much been on non-stop for over a year now. :-) i figure at some point it'll die and I'll use your info to bring it back to life.

thx again!

Yep, that's how mine started! If I were you, I'd do the fix, as Pkilla said, it takes about 10 mins and makes the instrument perfect again! You won't regret it! :Do Having it powered on for a year is pretty impressive though, kudos for that!

You will replace battery?

You might as well draw a circle on the floor, put JP8000 in it and dance around it for 18 hours.










EDIT: Never mind. Just noticed your recent post. Kudos for the repair. It was obvious from the start it's either electrolytic cap or a bad output amp. Too bad i didn't notice your post earlier.

Hello Nismology

I got a problem like yours on my JP8000 and open it to check the c219 but when i try to put out the support still stay on the component main board .
Is it normal ?
now i have the 2 pins which appears ,can i use these pins to put an another capacity or could you explain me how do you do to cahnge the c219 because this is the firts time i saw this kind aluminium SMD capacity .
The one i bought today is different with 2 long pins !

Tks for help.

Michel

Hi Michel,

It's easy to leave the SMD legs behind. They're quite delicate components. Not to worry, just make sure that the legs left in the PCB aren't bridging the gap and solder your standard capacitor in normally. Make sure you get the +- polarity correct.

Adding another confirmation that the C219 replacement works.

In addition to C219 I also chose to replace C217 (100μF / 6.3V) since there was some yellowish corrosion on its positive pad. C219's pads were quite corroded in my unit but they did clean up well after using solder wick and then some thermal paste remover and isopropyl alcohol.

Since I do not have a rework station, I used a brute force method to remove the SMD caps, as carefully as possible, so as not to lift the pads.

I replaced both caps with Nichicon through-hole electrolytics with their legs trimmed evenly and bent 90° at the tips so that their legs lay flat on the pads. Conveniently, the metal cover above the main board has an opening just above C219 / C217 that can accommodate the height of the through-hole caps without having to resort to bending them over.

Because the unit's output was very quiet prior to this fix (before the distortion began) I had also previously done the output mod which routed the headphone output to the main L/R outputs. Since the C219 replacement fixes the mute circuit issue there is now no need for this modification so I removed the wire jumper bodge and then replaced equivalents of the original components and my JP8k now sounds as beautiful as new.

[If you also did the output mod on the jack board and want to revert back to stock, note that the ferrite beads that Roland used are now obsolete. If you removed them like I did, Murata BL02RN2R1M2B is a good equivalent].

Thanks Nismology,
I had the same issue with my JP8000 (low distorted volume). I replaced C219 like you recommended (nothing else) today, and it's back to live. Loud and clear again. i really appreciate your tip and that you spent time sharing it on this blog.
Best, Micxter

Thanks All ! Replacing cap C219 fixed my machine as well.
One question though...I did manage to break the tiny plastic holder that the cap sits in so I just soldered the two tiny wires of the cap onto the board.

Is there any issues with doing it this way??
I do get the distortion problem for about 30 secs on startup and then it goes away...

Thanks all for a great thread...I love my JP8000 and would hate to see its demise....

Hi all,

First of all I am new here however this thread finally made me sign up.
I have ordered new caps for my 8080 and will try my best to make pictures when I am going to replace them.
Will not let this beast go silent just yet!
Thanks everybody for all the useful information here!

Very usefull indeed, I'm going to pick up a Roland JP-8000 tomorrow and will likely replace these as a matter of course

Greetings djblackbird,

Welcome to Gearlsutz!

@ core2lee Welcome to GS!

I replaced the C219 as well, same issue of distortion on boot up (although not always). Did you manage to find a fix?

it didn't fix it completely but the distortion goes away in 10 seconds after I switch it on...

I was talking about the issue of the distortion on boot up. I have that too after the fix.

Any EEs here, what could be the cause?

Well I have finally opened up my 8080 and found that C219 is a different one then the 8000.
Anyone have experience replacing caps in a 8080?
Thx

I hope this thread remains live for a long time! Great info.

I have two dead jp-8000s here I have to get around to fixing or just selling or something, one is basically bricked, screen all pixels filled nothing does nothing. The other is this Common low-volume problem.
Basically a whole bunch of capacitors need to be replaced. Supposedly Roland used low-quality caps
This video is the best I found about this but I need to know exactly which caps to buy and gets replaced plus there one or some that take a different type cap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjIpFMc2www

Here at my JP-8000, the output is very low - this is also a very usual error and to fix this it is recommend to replace all caps at the mainboard.
At the end, I bought caps that are available here in germany at reichelt.de:
1 x ELKO SMD, 100 µF, 6,3V 105 ° C, 1000h low ESR (article no. FC-V 100U 6,3) - 0,21 €
19 x ELKO SMD, 10 µF, 16V 105 ° C, 1000h low ESR (article no. FC-V 10U 16) - 4,64 € (for all 19)
1 x ELKO SMD, 22 µF, 16V 105 ° C, low ESR (article no. FK-V 22U 16) - 0,27 €

> At the end, if the spec fits there should be no worse pick than the original caps.
> ESR means Equivalent Series Resistance

Roland Cloud needs to bring out a JP-8000 VST. Instead of more soundpacks for their existing line of software synths.