I know, another superchunk thread!!

but, I've been in a deep dive here on GS for a few months reading every thread on the topic of DIY superchunks. Some of those legendary monster threads have starting points dating back to the early 2000's. one thing I've noticed is the evolution of the superchunk and how it's been modified over the years.

I guess my question lies in what version would you advise for someone attempting to build corner bass traps of the "superchunk" variety in 2022?

the following designs have been applauded and built over the past 15 plus years and advocated by the many experts who have educated many on the subject. however, they are slightly different. There has been changes when it comes to the triangle material as well as the using rigid board on the face or just fabric framed over triangles. I'm interested in the most effective floor to ceiling corner base trap you would advise based on the following three. these seem to be the options I would build for my own room.


1. the 34x24x24 framed fabric front panel: filled with the fluffy stuff cut into, triangles and stacked into corner behind frame.

2. the 24x17x17 Rigid board: two inch OC705 frk front panel, covered in fabric, with Roxul safe and sound panels cut into triangles, stacked behind panel. (I've also seen 2 OC panels used in this configuration: a 2inch 705frk along with a 2 inch OC703 total of 4inch panel with roxul triangles)

3. the 24x17x17 - same as above configuration using 2 layers of OC rigid boards covered in fabric, with the fluffy stuff cut into triangles replacing the safe and sounds more dense triangles.

thanks!!

I figured I'd let 200 views go by with no response before I "bump" the topic... its a sleepier forum compared to others.

any takers?

Hi, I am in the same situation: I want to build DIY Corner Bass Traps. I think the most important question is the Absorber Material that you want to use and then build the Frame around it.

I will go with the Caruso Iso Bond WLG 040 (>5kPA) Material, where one element is 120 x 62,5 x 15 cm. I will cut each element in half (diagonal) so that I get two same sized triangles (from each element). Then I will staple these triangles from floor to ceiling. I will leave an air gap of 10cm to the walls to avoid mould. Caruso Iso Bond is 100% made of Polyester, so there are no health concerns (not like with Stonewool) at all. You don't need to cover it with for example frost blanket/garden vlies or something like that. Only for optics i will then cover the Frame with a fabric from ikea. Here in Europe its called "Ditte" which is very cheap and also has good air flow.

If you want to use Stonewool I would also cover it with frost blankets/garden vlies. Here is a thread where a user had breathing problems: Shortness Of Breath From Rockwool Absorbers

I guess it is not so common though. Here in europe we use lots of stonewool isulation - it gets realy cold here And I know construction workers dealing with stonewool nearly every day, that have no health problems with it...

I would go for a slatted trap that is build into the structure with a proper wooden frame, so you can calculate the exact size gaps needed, once you've measured the room.

Here is a thread showing how simple the construction could be: How I Built My Corner Bass Traps

I did see that build which lead me to the question regarding how the corner traps have evolved over the years. in your example he built a fabric frame in front of stacked triangles of roxul.. I was curious if a layer or two of rigid insulation board (OC705 frk/OC703) then stack the triangles behind the rigid boards was a better bass trap design? any thoughts?

have you looked at making a helmholtz, slatted absorber? they are good because it combines absorbption in the low end with diffusion in the midrange/high end and they look good too.

Bobalou,

What did you finally do for your “SuperChunk”? I am doing triangle bass traps, but up high at the ceiling. This video explains: https://vimeo.com/1034015503/4e367d1772

Can you point me to any low frequency absorption coefficient measurements that have been done on a WHOLE ROLL of PINK INSULATION? Insulation thickness? Faced or Un-Faced ? What “R” Value… ?

The diameter of the roll is also a consideration, as I don’t want to use up too much space. I appreciate the help.