The switch on my RE-20 (older model - maybe from the 1980s) broke and I'm having a hard time figuring out whether it can be fixed or if it is maybe even missing a piece.

The newer ones that I've seen online look a little different, but on mine, there are two yellow wires that each lead to a copper strip. One of them seems to be held into place with a small metal pin (you can see this on the top left in one of my pictures). The other does not have this pin - just an empty hole (which might mean it's missing the pin??). Anyway, the copper strip without a pin won't stay in place.

Questions:

1) Can anyone let me know how this switch is supposed to work (mechanically - not functionally)?

2) Does anyone have a dead RE-20 that they would be willing to sell me the filter switch from? Or maybe even that entire round plastic mounting assembly? I don't think EV sells this part.

3) If it cannot be replaced, what is the best way to bypass it so that the bass roll off is always OFF?

Apologies for the crummy pictures...

Thanks,

DT

Hi,
I've restored quite a few RE-20 over the years.

The Filter is not really needed or used nowadays, it comes from a time when not all consoles and users had an easy access to a Low Cut Filter.
So for nowadays standards most people preffer to use it always Flat, and then if they need to cut the low end they will use a High Pass Filter or any form of EQ.

What I do for my RE20 and MD421 mics is I always remove the connections to the built in filter and remove it from the circuit.
I do a lot of Live Sound Work and that helps me in a Live sound situation where I'm doing FOH mixing that I don't have to go on the stage checking some stupid Low Cut Filters on the Mic that I don't need.

This is the schematic for the mic, it's a really simple circuit, to remove the Filter and switch from the circuit just cut the yellow wire that joins the Red wire and put some heat shrink or electrical tape around the end of the yellow wire:




Don't replace the switch, just leave it there and remove it from the circuit it's an useless thing

Hi. I see your point about the switch - and it's actually stuck in the open position since the connector tab is what broke off. Still... there have been times where I found it convenient to use the high pass, and it bugs me to have part of the mic broken (even if it doesn't really matter). It's such a simple thing to replace, if only I had the part. Someone actually sold an EV case without the capsule for 7 bucks on ebay a few weeks ago. How did I miss that. heh.

Anyway - I'm still looking for this, so if anyone has the part, please contact me.

And you don't have an Hi Pass in some other place?
There's High pass filters everywhere nowadays

Honestly if you lived closed to me I would change your switch for one from my mics as I truly hate that switch and the one in the Sen 421.
I would gladly give it to you

You can order all the parts for this mic from Electro Voice

here are the parts numbers for the switch assembly

First thing I did was call EV. They claim to not have the switch anymore and that they throw away all scrap parts (I really doubt this - in fact, they have sent me scrap parts in the recent past). Also, the newer versions of the mic use a completely different switch and mounting assembly (or whatever that round thing it is on is called) - so the switch has to come off a mic that was made before 2011 (approximately).

If I admit that I just totally hate having partially broken gear, will you all cut me a little slack on wanting to fix this

iLCacciLLo - if you are serious, I'll gladly send you my busted switch and return postage

This passage from Ballou's (1991) New Audio Cyclopedia states that the filter is engaged when the circuit is open:

As in many cardioid microphones, the RE20 has a low frequency roll off switch to reduce the proximity effect when close mic'ing. Fig. 1 5-87 shows the wiring diagram of the RE20. By moving the red wire to either the 250 or 50 Ohm tap, the microphone output impedance can be changed. Note the "bass tilt" switch that, when open, reduces the series inductance and, therefore, the low-frequency response.

iLCacciLLo - Is this definitely not correct?

This passage from Ballou's (1991) New Audio Cyclopedia states that the filter is engaged when the circuit is open:

As in many cardioid microphones, the RE20 has a low frequency roll off switch to reduce the proximity effect when close mic'ing. Fig. 1 5-87 shows the wiring diagram of the RE20. By moving the red wire to either the 250 or 50 Ohm tap, the microphone output impedance can be changed. Note the "bass tilt" switch that, when open, reduces the series inductance and, therefore, the low-frequency response.

iLCacciLLo - Is this definitely not correct?

Man, I really don't understand why the F**** do you care for the stupid switch, when the mic works perfectly without it and you will not need the low cut on the mic, its kind of a strange OCD behavior.

But what the heck, I couldn't care less, I don't use it and I have it removed from my mics. I exchange one of mine for yours, pm me for my address.

I don't do it for a long time now, I remember the opposite.
Let me re-check it and be sure and I will report back, I don't really wanna give wrong information

but... but... this is gearslutz.... is no place safe for OCD people anymore?

I'll PM you...

best - D

Of course there is

Bumping this because I'm still looking for a switch (or completely destroyed mic with working switch). Please PM me if you have one... thanks DT

I know this post is old, but my RE-20 -out of nowhere- is doing this thing where you fire it up, it's fine in bypass, then it's fine with effect on, but going back to bypass again it's dead sound. Nothing goes through until I unplug the jack and plug it back in.

Any ideas??

This thread is about EV RE-20 microphones not effect pedals.

*red face*
Sorry!
*shuffles out of room backwards*

So you ever get that switch situation sorted?

Hm... sort of. I never managed to get a switch. I ended up disconnecting it. There is conflicting information online, but in the version I had open was flat, as I recall (which is what you would expect). I would still like to put a switch in. There are different versions of the terminal block and switch. I think the big changes occurred around 2011.

I would still like to get a switch (pre-2011 style) if anyone has one

Since you’ve been searching so long for this like some Indiana Jones adventure, just buy a used similar year one, take the switch out from that, then put it in your mic, and throw the rest of the mic away. Or maybe you can search for a switch for that one. Maybe your audio engineering true life destiny, is to endlessly look for RE20 switches.

I'm not actually an audio engineer. I professionally fail at restoring RE20 switches for a living. So, yes, it is my destiny, and no it does not pay well.