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Any ideas for tricky corners
Old 10th September 2012
  #1
Here for the gear
 
🎧 5 years
Any ideas for tricky corners

I'm looking for ideas for corner trapping built-in bookshelves - (See attached drawing)
Initially thought 4" (maybe thicker) absorption panel across corner (from wall to shelf edges) but that leaves the corner inside the shelves untreated. Maybe books or chunks on each shelf as well as panel?
Also any ideas re the chimney corners. I'm guessing they need treatment especially s they're close behind the monitors. (6" Tannoys)

Thanks

David
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Old 11th September 2012
  #2
JWL
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🎧 15 years
Simplest way is to use freestanding traps, or traps on stands, in front of the shelf. Or you could build something custom and lose the shelves' fucntionality (at least partially).
Old 11th September 2012
  #3
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🎧 5 years
Thanks for your reply. I think I'll try chunks (small @350mm long side of triangle) for the inside corners of each shelf as well as 600mm wide absorbers (from side walls to shelf edges)
I'll draw a sketch later today.
Old 11th September 2012
  #4
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kasmira's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
How many shelves are there? I would just fill the whole space and then cover with fabric. Or perhaps alternate...one shelf absorber, one shelf books, etc..

Or as JWL suggested, free standing traps would also work.
Old 11th September 2012 | Show parent
  #5
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🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by kasmira ➑️
How many shelves are there? I would just fill the whole space and then cover with fabric. Or perhaps alternate...one shelf absorber, one shelf books, etc..
There are 5 shelves of varying height from 46cm at bottom to 20ish cm at top.
filling the whole shelf might be good. I wonder how that would compare with covering each shelf space with 50mm (2") of 48kg/cuM polyester leaving the "sealed" space behind. I'll try that out soon as I've got pieces cut to the right size. Maybe fill that space with something lighter.
Thanks for steering me in a different direction.

David
Old 11th September 2012
  #6
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🎧 15 years
It really would not be "sealed" and you only make something "sealed" when doing pressure based traps (tuned trapping), which is not really going to work in a shelf like that. For what you are doing I would fill the whole area.
Old 11th September 2012 | Show parent
  #7
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🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Kuras ➑️
It really would not be "sealed" and you only make something "sealed" when doing pressure based traps (tuned trapping), which is not really going to work in a shelf like that. For what you are doing I would fill the whole area.
Would you use a less dense filler ie loft insulation R30 for the shelf space?

Also I'm tempted to try to fill under the timber floor which is planked with 5 1/4in x 3/4in hardwood which has approx 3/8in gaps. The subfloor depth is between 8 and 11ins. The floor is old and has slight bounce and air can freely flow through the gaps. I am guessing that by varying the area of floor covered (mats) I might get some bass control.
- Hope this isn't hi-jacking my own thread
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Old 12th September 2012
  #8
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🎧 10 years
The answer to both of your questions as you suspect is yes.

Sent from my SCH-I535
Old 12th September 2012
  #9
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🎧 5 years
Do you think I should add the extra subfloor depth (approx 10") to my room height for mode calculation?
Old 12th September 2012
  #10
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🎧 10 years
I would calculate it both ways and verify which one is more dominant by testing. After all, room mode calculators are only estimates...the wall construction will play a large part in whether the estimates will be correct or off a bit. At the present moment I would worry more about insulating the floor...I would suspect that your current floor will have an effect similar to a drum head. Not good.

Sent from my SCH-I535
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