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Advice on my treatment upgrade plan
Old 1 week ago
  #1
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Advice on my treatment upgrade plan

Hello!

I am thinking about upgrading my studio setup and I want to turn to this great forum for some advice on my plan. I am a novice when it comes to acoustic treatment.

My goal:
My room is not optimal, but I love it! I want to improve upon what I have, and make the best out of it. I know it can’t be perfect, but I’m fine with that. So don’t roast me too much...
I want to try to improve my bass response a bit, and I feel that the room might be a bit on the lively end so it wouldn’t hurt to dampen it a bit more.


My current treatment setup:
5 x GIK 242 panels: 2 on both left and right first reflections and 1 as a cloud.
4 x GIK 244 Bass traps: 1 in each corner.
2 x GIK Monster Bass Traps on stands, against the back wall.
(I have attached pictures and .mdat etc)

My plan:
I am thinking about getting 4 Monster Bass Traps and place them straddling the four corners instead of my 244s.

Then move my four 244s to the first side wall reflections instead of the 242s.

Buy an additional 2-pack of 244s, and change the cloud from 242 to 244, and place the second 244 horizontally on the front wall between my monitors.

My five 242s I would sell to fund some of the changes.

That will leave me with:
6 x Monster Bass Traps: 4 straddling the corners and 2 on stands against the back.
6 x 244 Bass Traps: 2 on each side wall first reflection, 1 cloud and 1 on the front wall.

Does this sound like a good plan moving forward? Basically increase the thickness of every panel in the room (except the two monsters that I already got). And gain one additional 244 on the front wall (since they come in packs of two)

Would there be any benefit by adding a range limiter in the 4 monster bass traps in the corners? Or is it best to go full broadband everywhere?


Aesthetics:
 (If someone is interested..)
I’m thinking about getting light gray panels instead of black in the front by the mixing area, and build dark wooden frames for them And then paint the walls in a nicer color! (and redo the fabric on the 244s for the side walls)


Some additional info about the room:


Here is the room plan:

L: 4.33m
W: 3.20m
H: 2.41m (2.01m to the vent over the mix position)

I have attached a drawing of the room with the intended treatment: (not 100% accurate drawing but roughly)
 and have also attached some pictures.

The back wall is plexiglass out to the hall way, with a sliding door in the middle. So it's basically like a big window (see the attached images). This might be a problem (?) but I can't really do much about it unfortunately. (Hoping that it even might help with the bass build up..)





REW:
I have also attached a .mdat file of my room with my current treatment. I have followed the instructions on this forum as best as I could but please say if anything is missing or looks wrong in the measurements since it is the first time doing it.


Thank you very much!!

Regards,
Petter
Attached Thumbnails
Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-room-setup.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-backwall-curtains-closed.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-backwall-curtains-open.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-front-wall.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-side-wall.jpg  

Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-vent.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: zip PK Room Measurements.mdat.zip (3.99 MB, 9 views)
Old 1 week ago
  #2
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Abdalla's Avatar
Is this a cellar? One can not have good bass in cellar.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #3
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🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abdalla ➡️
Is this a cellar? One can not have good bass in cellar.
It’s on the cellar floor yes! Why can’t you have a good bass response in a cellar? If you mean that the bass can’t ”escape” as easy the entire backwall is like a big plexiglass window out to a very long hallway (100+ meters) And the front wall has a small window aswell leading outside aswell.

Last edited by pettah93; 1 week ago at 12:28 AM..
Old 1 week ago
  #4
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Hot Sauce's Avatar
 
It is definitely more difficult to treat an area that has brick or concrete walls. Even with the plexiglass on one wall, concrete is very unforgiving and there's a lot of it - having both the floor and ceiling concrete is brutal. Having your rear wall essentially untreatable will not help either.

I think if you really wanted to make a shot at this you would need to rethink your approach. Probably the only way to get enough treatment in there to really make a big difference and not pay a huge amount of money would be to DIY.

For example, lining all your walls with 300mm or more of fluffy attic insulation would help your decay times. You could then just put all of your current traps on the ceiling and fill it up. Putting chunks in your ceiling corners would be a good idea.

It seems like your low end is a bit inflated. Do your speakers have a bass shelf you can just turn down a bit? That might help make the overall frequency response curve a bit more even. For example, even the dips below 200Hz are louder than most of your frequency response above 200Hz.

I'm also wondering why your response seems to fall off a cliff above 10kHz?

Overall I think it's a tall order but if you are determined I am sure you can make things at least better, but there will be a limit to how good you can get it. The frequency response right now is not that flat even in the mids. I think you would need more treatment towards the front of the room as well, and since you can't do your back wall as well as you should, put more on your front wall. The cloud should be bigger and ideally the entire ceiling. I fear that if you proceed the way you had in mind you may be disappointed with the cost vs improvement ratio. Whereas since you already have many of these traps that seem like they would fit hanging from your ceiling, you can move them and probably do your entire walls with fluffy insulation for the same price you would've spent.
Old 1 week ago
  #5
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Hot Sauce's Avatar
 
It's not my intention to discourage you, but I think in this situation you will benefit more by being totally realistic about what would be needed to get the results that I'm sure you want.

For example, I also started out with some traps that were only 75, maybe 100 mm thick.

After a while I came to realize this just wasn't doing anything to my bass. Now the thinnest traps I have are 150mm thick with at least 100mm air gap. My back wall has 300mm thick in most places and my corners have chunks that are around 500mm deep from floor to ceiling. And now I have a result that I am a lot happier with. It's not perfect - but it's acceptable for the time being and this got my frequency response to about +/- 4dB with only 40Hz decaying longer than 300 milliseconds. My worst resonance was around 70Hz and it is finally mostly taken care of. Next steps for me would be to treat the rest of my ceiling as right now I only have about 30%.
Old 1 week ago
  #6
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avare's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Mount all of your absorbers so that the face is at least 8" away from the wall/ceiling.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #7
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Sauce ➡️
It's not my intention to discourage you, but I think in this situation you will benefit more by being totally realistic about what would be needed to get the results that I'm sure you want.

For example, I also started out with some traps that were only 75, maybe 100 mm thick.

After a while I came to realize this just wasn't doing anything to my bass. Now the thinnest traps I have are 150mm thick with at least 100mm air gap. My back wall has 300mm thick in most places and my corners have chunks that are around 500mm deep from floor to ceiling. And now I have a result that I am a lot happier with. It's not perfect - but it's acceptable for the time being and this got my frequency response to about +/- 4dB with only 40Hz decaying longer than 300 milliseconds. My worst resonance was around 70Hz and it is finally mostly taken care of. Next steps for me would be to treat the rest of my ceiling as right now I only have about 30%.
Thank you for your very elaborate response! And don’t worry you’re not making me discouraged. I know that my room is far from optimal. But I want to improve upon it the best I can. I already enjoy working in it as it is, but it can only get better

Isolating the entire walls are definitely interesting! And it might be a workable option. Will there be a risk of ”over dampening” if I go that route? If I go this route, would you say isolating all the walls, or isolating the entire ceiling is the top priority?

If I would go with my strategy, even if you think I will be dissapointed, do you believe it will be improving from what it is right know? (Increasing the thickness of every panel I got and adding a bit more)

Would you maybe get an extra pack of 244s, placing one more as a cloud and one more on the front wall? (Then there will be two on the front and two as a cloud.)

And would you get range limiters on the corner monsters, or leave them as normal broadband?

Thank you very much!
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #8
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by avare ➡️
Mount all of your absorbers so that the face is at least 8" away from the wall/ceiling.
Thank you! That is very interesting! Is that so you get a bigger airgap behind the panel? How would you go about hanging let’s say a GIK 244 panel that way? Would you build a frame for it so it comes of the wall, or would you place it on stands?
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #9
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avare's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
Thank you! That is very interesting! Is that so you get a bigger airgap behind the panel? How would you go about hanging let’s say a GIK 244 panel that way? Would you build a frame for it so it comes of the wall, or would you place it on stands?
It is so that you get more low end absorption. If you were starting from the scratch the standard "8" minimum thickness of 5-10k rayls/m material would be critical.

You can use stand off bolts, uframe hangers, wood pieces, etc. it is not critical how you do it
The goal is to try and emulate 8" deep absorbers with the material that you already have.

There is no difficulty in making a room with concrete walls sound good. You just have to know what you are doing.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #10
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by avare ➡️
It is so that you get more low end absorption. If you were starting from the scratch the standard "8" minimum thickness of 5-10k rayls/m material would be critical.

You can use stand off bolts, uframe hangers, wood pieces, etc. it is not critical how you do it
The goal is to try and emulate 8" deep absorbers with the material that you already have.

There is no difficulty in making a room with concrete walls sound good. You just have to know what you are doing.
Thank you Avare, great!!
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #11
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by avare ➡️
It is so that you get more low end absorption. If you were starting from the scratch the standard "8" minimum thickness of 5-10k rayls/m material would be critical.

You can use stand off bolts, uframe hangers, wood pieces, etc. it is not critical how you do it
The goal is to try and emulate 8" deep absorbers with the material that you already have.

There is no difficulty in making a room with concrete walls sound good. You just have to know what you are doing.
Sorry to bother you with more questions. All the advice I’m getting is invaluable! Do you agree with Hot Sauce that my best option would be to rethink entirely and isolate the entire walls, or do you think I can get some improvement by going with my plan with monsters and 244s (and getting the 8”+ mounting right!).

And maybe adding two more 244s than I originally had thought. (One more as a cloud and one more on the front wall)

Thank you!

Last edited by pettah93; 1 week ago at 08:28 AM..
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #12
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avare's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
Sorry to bother you with more questions. All the advice I’m getting is invaluable! Do you agree with Hot Sauce that my best option would be to rethink entirely and isolate the entire walls, or do you think I can get some improvement by going with my plan with monsters and 244s (and getting the 8”+ mounting right!).

And maybe adding two more 244s than I originally had thought. (One more as a cloud and one more on the front wall)

Thank you!
I do not see any mention of isolating the walls.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #13
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by avare ➡️
I do not see any mention of isolating the walls.
Sorry, I’m refering to this advice:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Sauce ➡️
I think if you really wanted to make a shot at this you would need to rethink your approach. Probably the only way to get enough treatment in there to really make a big difference and not pay a huge amount of money would be to DIY.

For example, lining all your walls with 300mm or more of fluffy attic insulation would help your decay times. You could then just put all of your current traps on the ceiling and fill it up. Putting chunks in your ceiling corners would be a good idea.
I understand that this probably would lead to a better result than my plan, but I’m just researching my options!

And ultimately I’m hoping my first plan would get me some improvement from what I currently have, and not be a total waste of money
Increasing the thickness of every panel and get some extra wall coverage with 1-3 more 244s. Will go from 11 panels to 12-14 panels in total. Only GIK Monsters and 244s.
And now after your advice, mount every panel in a way to get at least 8”.

The main goal is improvement, not perfection, since the room is limited

Last edited by pettah93; 1 week ago at 09:30 AM..
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #14
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avare's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
Sorry, I’m refering to this advice:



I understand that this probably would lead to a better result than my plan, but I’m just researching my options!

And ultimately I’m hoping my first plan would get me some improvement from what I currently have, and not be a total waste of money
Increasing the thickness of every panel and get some extra wall coverage with 1-3 more 244s. Will go from 11 panels to 12-14 panels in total. Only GIK Monsters and 244s.
And now after your advice, mount every panel in a way to get at least 8”.

The main goal is improvement, not perfection, since the room is limited
Hot sauce gave you good advice. Using attic insulation at 300mm deep is not only the right product acoustically but also the cheapest in North America. The ceiling cloud should be midway between the monitors and the listening position.

Appraise the room after your initial treatment.

The rear glass is a concern. What is your budget? Can you afford to put diffusers on either side of the glass?
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #15
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by avare ➡️
Hot sauce gave you good advice. Using attic insulation at 300mm deep is not only the right product acoustically but also the cheapest in North America. The ceiling cloud should be midway between the monitors and the listening position.

Appraise the room after your initial treatment.

The rear glass is a concern. What is your budget? Can you afford to put diffusers on either side of the glass?
Great, thank you!

Yes diffusers might be in budget! Do you mean on either sidewall next to the glass, or up against the glass?
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #16
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avare's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
Great, thank you!

Yes diffusers might be in budget! Do you mean on either sidewall next to the glass, or up against the glass?
I mean the sidewall next to the glass. This is to attempt give some masking of the huge specular reflection fro the glass.
Old 1 week ago
  #17
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Hot Sauce's Avatar
 
Let me rephrase some of my initial advice because I do not want to come off as saying "there is only one way forward."

I think that if you are hoping to make a single set of changes that will get you to an end result that you are satisfied with, I worry that your first plan will come up short.

However, if you are willing to remeasure, and change things around as needed a few times, then you are fine to try what you had in mind and see where it gets you. I also somehow missed that you were willing to do some trading of your traps in order to fund the purchase of other traps. As long as you are seeing this all as a process then I don't see any problem with just trying things out and measuring your response. Many people seem to want to know "the exact steps" that will bring their room to where they want in one shot. Obviously measuring step by step is a more precise way of doing things, but for those people who do want to do it in one step, it is probably better to err on the side of more. It seems you are probably okay with repeated measurements and changes, which is probably a better way to do it, outside of hiring a studio designer to design in advance a whole room to spec for you.

Right now you have some pretty long decay times in your low end. I think getting those under control is a priority. If you are worried about the high end becoming too dead you can buy the panels with the range limiter (or add a similar material if you build your own). This process may include not just adding things, but also changing placements and moving things around to different locations and measuring. There will no doubt be compromises so you just have to prioritize.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #18
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Sauce ➡️
Let me rephrase some of my initial advice because I do not want to come off as saying "there is only one way forward."

I think that if you are hoping to make a single set of changes that will get you to an end result that you are satisfied with, I worry that your first plan will come up short.

However, if you are willing to remeasure, and change things around as needed a few times, then you are fine to try what you had in mind and see where it gets you. I also somehow missed that you were willing to do some trading of your traps in order to fund the purchase of other traps. As long as you are seeing this all as a process then I don't see any problem with just trying things out and measuring your response. Many people seem to want to know "the exact steps" that will bring their room to where they want in one shot. Obviously measuring step by step is a more precise way of doing things, but for those people who do want to do it in one step, it is probably better to err on the side of more. It seems you are probably okay with repeated measurements and changes, which is probably a better way to do it, outside of hiring a studio designer to design in advance a whole room to spec for you.

Right now you have some pretty long decay times in your low end. I think getting those under control is a priority. If you are worried about the high end becoming too dead you can buy the panels with the range limiter (or add a similar material if you build your own). This process may include not just adding things, but also changing placements and moving things around to different locations and measuring. There will no doubt be compromises so you just have to prioritize.
Oh you didn’t come off like that at all! Thank you so much for your advice and input! It is really invaluable, and this thread has given me a lot to think about! I have definitely been rethinking my plan for the better.

And yes just as you say I view this as a process and I am willing to try things out.
Old 6 days ago
  #19
GIK Monster Bass Traps are good products that work -- down to a certain frequency. At your room length, you'll have a 1-0-0 mode at around 40 Hz against which Monster Bass Traps won't do much (if at all).

I don't think there is a lot wrong with buying a lot of absorbers and testing where they do something. I did that, too, and learned something.

However, GIK Monster Bass Traps have a price attached to them and eventually, you might want to treat the entire rear wall with cheaper material so don't buy more Monster Bass Traps than you can hang or stack in the front, left and right sides of your room. I.e. avoid buying more off-the-shelf treatment than you can use.
Old 5 days ago | Show parent
  #20
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akebrake's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
...And ultimately I’m hoping my first plan would get me some improvement from what I currently have, and not be a total waste of money
Quote:
The main goal is improvement, not perfection, since the room is limited
Hej Petter!

Your room measures surprisingly good IMHO in spite of the rigid walls and sparse treatment!
L/R symmetry is fairly good and the relatively narrow dips might not be very audible. L/R overlay (pic 1) Psy smoothed

Suggestions to start with:
1. Make sure that direct monitoring (when measururing w REW) is completly OFF (Source of combfiltering)
It’s like measuring a PA with open microphone.

2. Can you improve the speaker & Mic positions further?
Boggy tip LINK
In stead of white noise use Pink PN & RTA.

3. ”Map” the room. Figure out where the modal peaks and nulls are situated (in reality).
Try the Fraunhofer method, isolating individual modes by mic positioning.
Spkr in a corner to drive ALL modes hard. Mic in different positions (depending on mode of interest).

Example: Mode nr 0-0-1. Mic positioned close to the ceiling (in nulls of mode 1-0-0 and 0-1-0) which makes it more accurate to measure magnitude and decay of mode 0-0-1 with less interference.

Then add relevant trapping (large enough area) in the relevant positions... thumbs

Best
Ake

BTW I once had a flat on Selmedalsvägen.
But that was 50 years ago
Attached Thumbnails
Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-l-r-l-r.jpg  
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #21
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by johannburkard ➡️
GIK Monster Bass Traps are good products that work -- down to a certain frequency. At your room length, you'll have a 1-0-0 mode at around 40 Hz against which Monster Bass Traps won't do much (if at all).

I don't think there is a lot wrong with buying a lot of absorbers and testing where they do something. I did that, too, and learned something.

However, GIK Monster Bass Traps have a price attached to them and eventually, you might want to treat the entire rear wall with cheaper material so don't buy more Monster Bass Traps than you can hang or stack in the front, left and right sides of your room. I.e. avoid buying more off-the-shelf treatment than you can use.

Thank you Johann! That is very solid advice!
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #22
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by akebrake ➡️
Hej Petter!

Your room measures surprisingly good IMHO in spite of the rigid walls and sparse treatment!
L/R symmetry is fairly good and the relatively narrow dips might not be very audible. L/R overlay (pic 1) Psy smoothed

Suggestions to start with:
1. Make sure that direct monitoring (when measururing w REW) is completly OFF (Source of combfiltering)
It’s like measuring a PA with open microphone.

2. Can you improve the speaker & Mic positions further?
Boggy tip LINK
In stead of white noise use Pink PN & RTA.

3. ”Map” the room. Figure out where the modal peaks and nulls are situated (in reality).
Try the Fraunhofer method, isolating individual modes by mic positioning.
Spkr in a corner to drive ALL modes hard. Mic in different positions (depending on mode of interest).

Example: Mode nr 0-0-1. Mic positioned close to the ceiling (in nulls of mode 1-0-0 and 0-1-0) which makes it more accurate to measure magnitude and decay of mode 0-0-1 with less interference.

Then add relevant trapping (large enough area) in the relevant positions... thumbs

Best
Ake

BTW I once had a flat on Selmedalsvägen.
But that was 50 years ago
Tack and thank you so much! For the great advice, and also for giving me hope! I will definitely try it all.

And cool! Then we're almost neighbors! (by 50 years at least haha!)

/Petter
Old 3 days ago
  #23
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1 Review written
🎧 5 years
Did anyone answer about adding the range limiters to whatever new traps you order from GIK?
It seems to me (NOT an expert) that it would extend and enhance damping of very low frequencies, where your existing treatment is less effective.
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #24
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushman ➡️
Did anyone answer about adding the range limiters to whatever new traps you order from GIK?
It seems to me (NOT an expert) that it would extend and enhance damping of very low frequencies, where your existing treatment is less effective.
Hi Bushman! Thank you for your reply! That is what I am thinking as well, (obviously not an expert myself) especially for the corner traps? For the side reflections I am thinking it might be a bad idea since it dampens the mids and highs considerably less than the regular ones, and I am thinking that you would want full broadband there?

On the other hand maybe my room would be too lively if all the corner traps have range limiters, since I will get less dampening in the mids and highs, so I don't know what is best.

And getting range limiters on them kind of limit their use when I move to another room in the future. The ordinary traps can have many functions, so maybe the they are more "future proof".
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #25
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1 Review written
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
Hi Bushman! Thank you for your reply! That is what I am thinking as well, (obviously not an expert myself) especially for the corner traps? For the side reflections I am thinking it might be a bad idea since it dampens the mids and highs considerably less than the regular ones, and I am thinking that you would want full broadband there?

On the other hand maybe my room would be too lively if all the corner traps have range limiters, since I will get less dampening in the mids and highs, so I don't know what is best.

And getting range limiters on them kind of limit their use when I move to another room in the future. The ordinary traps can have many functions, so maybe the they are more "future proof".
I don’t disagree with your thoughts, although corner traps probably could be range limited in a room with a lot of other trapping.
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #26
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushman ➡️
I don’t disagree with your thoughts, although corner traps probably could be range limited in a room with a lot of other trapping.
Okay great! Thank you!
Old 1 day ago
  #27
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akebrake's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by pettah93 ➡️
...Would there be any benefit by adding a range limiter in the 4 monster bass traps in the corners? Or is it best to go full broadband everywhere?
I feel like you prefer the flexibility of module treatment?
To me that seems wise, if you don’t own the building. There’s a lot of plumbing, ventilation equipment and electrical wiring which cannot be changed, built in, or hidden that easily...

Treating a heavy walled room with a number of relatively small modules is a challenge of course. 4 range limiters is a small area rel. the rest.

A lot of testing needed to improve the most problematic resonances or nulls.

Soft absorbers:
Deeper & larger area means more bass absorption (always with the risk of overtrapping the mid/hi frequencies. ”Range limiter” will increase abs in the 80 Hz band. To be placed carefully of course because they reflect mids and highs...

PS Pls confirm the dimensions of the room (pic 1)
Post 1: Text says: Length: 4.33m but Room plan says Length: 3.20m. Which is right?

Also a couple of REW plots below (from your uploaded mdat). R speaker.

Pic 2 The EQ tab (in REW) have an interesting ”find resonances” function.
Pic 3 Group Delay. Excess phase peaks / SBIR problems at 118Hz...
Pic 4 Late bass also apparent in the Spectrogram/ Wavelet. Peak energy time jumps suddenly at 118 Hz which happen to coincide with mode 3-0-0.


Another Q: Was the curtains open or closed in the back?

Best

Ake
Attached Thumbnails
Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-1-room-setup.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-2-r-eq-.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-3-r-gd-.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-4-r-wave.jpg  
Old 1 day ago | Show parent
  #28
Gear Nut
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by akebrake ➡️
I feel like you prefer the flexibility of module treatment?
To me that seems wise, if you don’t own the building. There’s a lot of plumbing, ventilation equipment and electrical wiring which cannot be changed, built in, or hidden that easily...
Yes, that is exactly how I am thinking! In my next room I might have better options to build my own but in here I think modules is the way to go

Quote:
Originally Posted by akebrake ➡️
PS Pls confirm the dimensions of the room (pic 1)
Post 1: Text says: Length: 4.33m but Room plan says Length: 3.20m. Which is right?
Oh my bad, 4.33m is the length, and 3.20m is the width!


Quote:
Originally Posted by akebrake ➡️
Another Q: Was the curtains open or closed in the back?
During the measurement it was closed!

Do you maybe have an idea what the 118 SBIR problem might be?



What would you do if you where in my shoes? Would you get Monsters with range limiters for the corners, or would you get regular Monsters, and mount them with an air gap to get better low end absorption as avare so helpfully pointed out? Maybe that way I can keep the mid and high absorption but still get improved low end absorption.


I have also been in touch with GIK the last couple of days, and they thought that my upgrade plan would be a good next move forward. With one extra suggestion to add one extra 244 as a cloud so that I will have 2 panels á 120x60 above the mixing position making it a 120x120m cloud.

Then I will get Monsters for the corners, hopefully helping a bit with the 78Hz and 104Hz resonances. Switching all my 242s with 244s so all panels in the room will be thicker and hopefully also help a bit with the reverb time of my low mid, upper lows. As well as getting an extra 244 panel for the front wall, where I currently have no treatment, and an extra 244 in the cloud so I will get a 120x120 cloud.

I have added pictures to illustrate it a bit more clearly!

My hope is that this upgrade will take me a bit on the way at least!
Attached Thumbnails
Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-before.jpg   Advice on my treatment upgrade plan-after.jpg  
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