The No.1 Website for Pro Audio
Allen & Heath GSR-24M
Old 14th March 2021
  #1351
Gear Maniac
 
Jethro's Avatar
To all the gsr-24m users out there
I’m looking for a new desk , I would appreciate if you could show me what u got to be inspired
Old 15th March 2021 | Show parent
  #1352
Here for the gear
 
Gsr 24M master bus help

Been using the board for about two years, and while it is manageable, the right ch on my master bus is spotty. It will fuzz in and out if I press on the metal housing above the master faders, and seems to be a little lower gain and with rolled of hi end. So, something is amok. Anyone have any knowledge of where to start looking, and for that matter, how? I am an experienced solderer, and module builder so I figure it should be in my wheelhouse to fix, just need a little guidance.
Old 22nd March 2021
  #1353
Here for the gear
 
did you guys got the new analogue cards straight from A&H? l am in Spain and need one ASAP. Please let me know if you got any leads thanks
Old 22nd March 2021 | Show parent
  #1354
Here for the gear
 
I have contacted A&H main support service and they forwarded my request to the local (italian) supplier. Mine is on the road, I will receive it in few days.
Old 22nd March 2021 | Show parent
  #1355
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanoBrondi ➡️
I have contacted A&H main support service and they forwarded my request to the local (italian) supplier. Mine is on the road, I will receive it in few days.
nice!! lucky you. via email or? going to try to do the same
Old 22nd March 2021 | Show parent
  #1356
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe78 ➡️
Hi there,

Thanks for the reply!

So you went kind of the same route...

As for the channel mutes of the board i found out,
that it does not happen, if i turn on the mixer some time before the computer, try that, it might work for you aswell.

For now, i will not invest any more time or money to fix the one faulty channel, i just downloaded midipipe, converteted cc#15 into program change and filtered that out, this way all note messages and other cc's are still sending to ableton live.

Midi implementation is a bit of a joke if you work with live, or at least i have no clue how to get it work via a protocol, so i just learn the midi of the fader, button or knob i want to use, with the transport buttons inactive.

In any way... this mixer really is sweet sounding and high quality, great eq, great preamps, nice tube channel, summing is good, mutes are dead silent, no audio bleeding in, it adds vibe and definitely has a sound, it is not transparent in a good way,
very silent in terms of noise, it even likes to be pushed a bit.

It moves the air and bumps my goose, i love it!

Compared to the Toft ATB, which i had before and was a build quality nightmare, it is a clear winner in all disciplines.

Do you have any idea if there is a midi protocol which will work with ableton live?

All the best for you, enjoy life and your lovely mixing console!

No retreat, no surrender....



Ps. [email protected] covid, big tech, WEF, gates, politicians and all the rest of the scammers trying the take over our planet. Your great reset will NOT work because... TEAM HUMAN IS HERE!
Joe, we are the resistance!
Old 25th March 2021 | Show parent
  #1357
Here for the gear
 
Finally Here

Today my long awaited Balanced Analog Card for the GSR24M arrived. Can’t wait to put it on and start routing to the Antelope converters. Thanks to all the colleagues in the Forum, with your help I finally made it!
Attached Thumbnails
Allen & Heath GSR-24M-9b3a0c39-6e55-4cfc-9873-912220926b48.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-21faa54e-0551-4290-bea2-594ecb3518a2.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-901df235-0584-4110-b70d-3535c22e50cd.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-ec0e887e-12cb-407b-9882-96b1dfd6b569.jpg  
Old 25th March 2021 | Show parent
  #1358
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zrg432 ➡️
nice!! lucky you. via email or? going to try to do the same
Hello Zrg, via email to A&H British Support Site!
Old 29th March 2021 | Show parent
  #1359
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanoBrondi ➡️
Hello Zrg, via email to A&H British Support Site!
uff you got lucky, l got to them and they just told me where to message and the local distributors here in Barcelona just work with big companies, l will have to try again l guess.

If anyone is selling one of their analogue cards let me know.
Old 1st April 2021
  #1360
Gear Addict
 
🎧 15 years
Hi folks,
I'm confused; If I were to buy a GSR24M, using macOS Big Sur, which functionality will I not get?
ANY help is appreciated!
Thank you :-)
Old 4 weeks ago
  #1361
Here for the gear
 
Hi guys. I'm about to buy a second hand GSR24M but am wondering if the Firewire interface will work with my 2019 Macbook pro running Big Sur?
Old 4 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1362
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybregar ➡️
Installed it...... and.......

It's all working great. I'm so psyched. Now I have two Apollos (x8 and x16) and all the ins/outs to/from the board are working great - it's such a slick setup with so much flexibility.

I'm so thankful to the folks at Allen & Heath for doing this.

Rich at Lunchbox Audio worked hard to figure out how to get these, and totally did me a solid. Feel free to reach out to him or whoever your dealer is, and do it quickly - because I understand there's not that many of these cards made, and they won't be making another run. So get 'em while they're hot....
Hi mate. Would you mind telling me what you paid for the analogue interface? Looking to but a second had board and need to factor this in. Thanks
Old 4 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1363
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StefanoBrondi ➡️
Today my long awaited Balanced Analog Card for the GSR24M arrived. Can’t wait to put it on and start routing to the Antelope converters. Thanks to all the colleagues in the Forum, with your help I finally made it!
Hi mate. Would you mind telling me what you paid for the analogue interface? Looking to buy a second hand board and need to factor this in. Thanks
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1364
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
Fan swap

Finally got around to replacing the stock fan on the rps15 with a modern, silent fan. Here are some pictures for those interested. I used the same item @ Speeddemon wrote about in this thred in may of 2019; the silemx effizio 25cfm. I was able to ise the rubber sound deadening mints that came with the fan to secure it to the heat exchanger subframe.

This is totally worth it if the power supply is within earshot. Its dead quiet now. Theres plenty of airflow.

Proceed at your own risk. There are high voltages in there that you need to drain.

I was surprised to find the mains earth wire was on a ring terminal just sitting on a chassis post, not bolted down. Fixed that. Glad i went in!!
Attached Thumbnails
Allen & Heath GSR-24M-c93e0995-491d-4185-a8ac-839e19a24616.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-1911ca09-cd47-4f57-9b5d-f5b30e432ad4.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-1a451805-9243-4dd7-9248-c246890a99ee.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-3ca7b5b0-56d9-45b2-845c-35d7cba162e1.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-e8529c29-b59f-4171-aed6-e599233322d6.jpg  

Old 2 weeks ago
  #1365
Here for the gear
 
🎧 10 years
A & H GS-R24M Interfaces - Sheet Metal Mods - UPDATED

I have a Rev 1 mixer and a Rev 2 ADAT-FW module. Long story (outlined in earlier posts)....

I know it's necessary to cut the sheet metal on the FW module to fit. I have the pics from previous owner's mods, however, I cannot see whether the sheet metal is cut completely flush, or if there is a rolled-over edge still attached to the silk-screened rear panel. None of the pics show an "end view" after modification.

--UPDATE - I have included a drawing in a .jpg file to hopefully to better explain my question. --

I also noticed the mounting holes on the ends of the FW panel do not align on the mixer. Does this leave only the top two mounting holes to secure the card?

Also, I have tried inserting the raw board into the mixer (raw = with no sheet metal attached), and the board doesn't seem to be plugging into the connector at all. Do I need to pull the mixer apart to see why this is happening?

Anyone have this problem or have knowledge about it? I want this beast to work, but I am losing any love I might have had for it.

And I am still seeking a balanced analogue card... tried every suggestion on Gearspace to no avail.

Starliner
Attached Thumbnails
Allen & Heath GSR-24M-sheet-metal-cut-line-question-h-gs-r24m-4-17-21.jpg  

Last edited by Starliner; 2 weeks ago at 06:04 AM.. Reason: Added drawing
Old 2 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1366
Here for the gear
 
noob problems

guys l know it might be a noob question but ok so l finally got my GSR24M but l am having problems understanding the midi set up for mac as the user guide files are all in windows and very old as you all know, also not a lot of videos for the setup in OSX.

l am running Catalina and Reaper; while in Reaper l don't know how to configure the MIDI because:

1) As OSX runs in Core Device there is no ASIO to enable inputs and have the first/last options.

2) The HUI gives me the same input/output options and not 3 as l see for most people in windows, also Reaper now has "fader count" and not "size tweaks" so when l try to configure the HUI, when moving the faders in the console nothing happens.

l am using the A&H template for Reaper, can anyone tell me what am l doing wrong or if there is something l need to do or download? my mac is reading the console and the driver is installed.

Thanks!
Old 2 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1367
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Made By Pete ➡️
Hi mate. Would you mind telling me what you paid for the analogue interface? Looking to buy a second hand board and need to factor this in. Thanks
Hi Pete, I paid it 950 euros (including the custom fees). I have a direct dealer in my town, so if you want I can ask for more cards as I did for two other users here. PM me and I'll provide you all the info.
Old 2 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1368
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starliner ➡️
I have a Rev 1 mixer and a Rev 2 ADAT-FW module. Long story (outlined in earlier posts)....

I know it's necessary to cut the sheet metal on the FW module to fit. I have the pics from previous owner's mods, however, I cannot see whether the sheet metal is cut completely flush, or if there is a rolled-over edge still attached to the silk-screened rear panel. None of the pics show an "end view" after modification.

--UPDATE - I have included a drawing in a .jpg file to hopefully to better explain my question. --

I also noticed the mounting holes on the ends of the FW panel do not align on the mixer. Does this leave only the top two mounting holes to secure the card?

Also, I have tried inserting the raw board into the mixer (raw = with no sheet metal attached), and the board doesn't seem to be plugging into the connector at all. Do I need to pull the mixer apart to see why this is happening?

Anyone have this problem or have knowledge about it? I want this beast to work, but I am losing any love I might have had for it.

And I am still seeking a balanced analogue card... tried every suggestion on Gearspace to no avail.

Starliner
Hi @ Starliner :

I (and others here) went with modifying the metalwork on the board rather than on the card to make a rev2 card work with our rev1 boards.

This was, to my way of thinking, a safer way to go as the metalwork on the card is really close to the pcb and an error would likely kill the card.

Have a look above i have photos of the modification. You’d have to modify not only the bottom panel metalwork, but also the card carrier metalwork as it prevents the card from going all the way in...by about 1cm. This is probably what is stopping your card making the connection.

Alternately, where are you located? I have a gen1 card that i no longer use i could sell you.

But if you're planning to keep the board long term, and want to run your own converters or above 48k, better to make the mod and buy an analogue card, imho.

You are correct; only two screw holes align. You could tap new holes if so moved. This has not been an issue for me. I also used tape to reinforce the connection between card and bottom plate;

Rens
Old 2 weeks ago
  #1369
Here for the gear
 
🎧 10 years
Hi Rens,

Interested in the unbalanced analogue card you mentioned as well.
Was looking at the earlier post you had referred me to, with the pics regarding the sheet metal issue. Have my mixer flipped and supported (on pool noodles in the fader area, after moving them to max positions so they are not touching - ditto for the jog wheel), and ready to pull the bottom panel.

You mentioned using DeOxit. Did you also use a lubricant AFTER the DeOxit? I had heard others say on other forums that DeOxit will clean, but does not replace the lubricant (I cannot verify this myself). I would be hesitant using it in the motorized faders, but not in other controls. Either way, I would likely use needle tip applicators to pinpoint the area.
Old 2 weeks ago | Show parent
  #1370
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starliner ➡️
Hi Rens,

Interested in the unbalanced analogue card you mentioned as well.
Was looking at the earlier post you had referred me to, with the pics regarding the sheet metal issue. Have my mixer flipped and supported (on pool noodles in the fader area, after moving them to max positions so they are not touching - ditto for the jog wheel), and ready to pull the bottom panel.

You mentioned using DeOxit. Did you also use a lubricant AFTER the DeOxit? I had heard others say on other forums that DeOxit will clean, but does not replace the lubricant (I cannot verify this myself). I would be hesitant using it in the motorized faders, but not in other controls. Either way, I would likely use needle tip applicators to pinpoint the area.
Let me make sure i can find the unbalanced card in the storeroom.

I use Deoxit d5 to clean switches and f5 for faders and pots. Fwiw i havent had to lube the faders on my gs-r24 but its been a lifesaver on the pa mixers that ive used live that are in cruddy smoky rooms with drunk people.

If a pot is really stubborn: isopropyl, work it, repeat 2 more times, dry overnight, f5, usually done.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #1371
Here for the gear
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtroost ➡️
Let me make sure i can find the unbalanced card in the storeroom.

I use Deoxit d5 to clean switches and f5 for faders and pots. Fwiw i havent had to lube the faders on my gs-r24 but its been a lifesaver on the pa mixers that ive used live that are in cruddy smoky rooms with drunk people.

If a pot is really stubborn: isopropyl, work it, repeat 2 more times, dry overnight, f5, usually done.
Hi Rens,

I have the mixer opened up, and spent the day trying to figure out the best way to modify the sheet metal to allow the Rev. 2 FW card to fit the Rev. 1 console.

I was able to get the "raw" (no sheet metal attached) FW card to seat fully into the connectors once I had pulled the sheet metal card cage out of the mixer (I marked and unplugged all 8 ribbon cables first). I don't see how anyone was getting proper seating of the card into the caged connectors, because mine were barely engaging the connectors... I am sure they would have been intermittent, at best.

But I still don't see the "best" way to cut the sheet metal (forgive me, and call me dense if you will)...
My questions are:
A. WHAT pieces of sheet metal need to be cut / modified?
B. WHERE do they need to be cut?
C. Does the bottom mixer cover need to be cut?
D. Does the card cage need to be cut?
E. Or, is the only cutting required supposed to happen on the bottom edge of the silk-screened back panel?

The way I see it, reattaching the silk-screened rear panel can cause the card's edge to pull away slightly from the caged connectors when the card connector's hardware is tightened, possibly causing electrical problems.

Also... the FW card bottom (soldered) edge is very close to the lip on the bottom cover... seems like this needs to be notched or (at the very least), insulated well.

Is there a way to retain the four mounting posts to secure the card?
I don't think this would be needed, except for the relatively short and unsecured insertion depth of the card into the caged connectors, and the relatively loose fit of the card in the plastic guide slots of the cage.

I hope this makes sense. I tried taking pictures, but after dozens of shots, they still didn't illustrate the situation very well.

Thanks!

Starliner
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #1372
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
Hey-

No worries. Going from memory, so make sure you measure and plan it to work for you!

> A. WHAT pieces of sheet metal need to be cut / modified?

The bottom panel of the mixer as well as two L-shaped parts of the internal card cage/holder.

> B. WHERE do they need to be cut?

a rectangular piece of the mixer bottom running the width of the card you are making room for and (from memory) just over a cm in depth.

An L-shaped bit of the rails on each side of the internal card carrier. Again from memory, this was on each side the first centimeter or so of the part parallel to the mixer bottom and the part perpendicular to the mixer bottom. I did it in two goes, but if I'd done it in one go I would have been left with an L-shaped offcut.

> C. Does the bottom mixer cover need to be cut?

Yes see above.

> D. Does the card cage need to be cut?

Yes, see above

> E. Or, is the only cutting required supposed to happen on the bottom edge of the silk-screened back panel?

I don't recall cutting that part at all, though I may have. I think I only cut the bottom.

Also... the FW card bottom (soldered) edge is very close to the lip on the bottom cover... seems like this needs to be notched or (at the very least), insulated well.

I ended up with decent contact between the bottom cover and the card and put tape along the entire seam to immobilise it and seal it. A more elegant solution would have been to use some kind of press to offset the bottom cover by 2mm or so the length of the part that, on a v2 card, slips under the bottom cover.

> Is there a way to retain the four mounting posts to secure the card?

I ended up with two mount points. Those, plus the tape, hold my v2 card secure in my modified v1 chassis.

> I don't think this would be needed, except for the relatively short and unsecured insertion depth of the card into the caged connectors, and the relatively loose fit of the card in the plastic guide slots of the cage.

tape is your friend!
Old 1 week ago
  #1373
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
A note on the tape: I used regular black electrical insulating tape because I had it on hand. I am going to open the board up again in May, and when I close it up again I will probably use conductive copper tape.
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #1374
Here for the gear
 
🎧 10 years
A & H GS-24M

Hi Rens,

Thanks for the quick reply!

I read over what you said, and I am reviewing the previous several pages of posts regarding this sheet metal work. I will be studying the mixer and card carefully over the next few days. I can always cut more away, but replacing that metal in the event of an error would be very difficult!

You had mentioned opening up your own mixer in May. I am wondering if you can take and post more pictures at that time, which could show exactly what mods were done? Not only would this help me, but I am sure others who want to modify their GS units would benefit from it.

Again, thanks for your help!

Starliner
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #1375
Gear Addict
 
Rtroost's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starliner ➡️
I am wondering if you can take and post more pictures at that time, which could show exactly what mods were done?

Sure, will do. Meanwhile, here is it in situ.
Attached Thumbnails
Allen & Heath GSR-24M-img_9401.jpg  
Old 1 week ago | Show parent
  #1376
Here for the gear
 
🎧 10 years
Hi Rens,

Here's two pics showing where I believe I should cut the card carrier.

I do not think I have to modify the silk-screened angled sheet metal on the back panel if I cut the card carrier back 1 1/8" as shown.

The board is fully inserted in the internal edge connectors (actually fit into the connectors 1/4" deep), and the outer edge of the board's I/O's are all flush with the rear edge of the card carrier.

I "assume" by doing this, I do not have to remove either of the board's support standoffs.

The only other cutting would appear to be the mixer bottom sheet metal rear edge, to allow the card to slide into the card carrier.

Am I correct, or ???

Thanks,

Starliner
Attached Thumbnails
Allen & Heath GSR-24M-h-adat-card-carrier-pre-mods-4-29-21-4-.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-h-adat-card-carrier-pre-mods-4-29-21-17-.jpg   Allen & Heath GSR-24M-h-adat-card-carrier-pre-mods-4-29-21-1-.jpg  

Last edited by Starliner; 1 week ago at 01:20 AM.. Reason: pics
Old 3 days ago
  #1377
Here for the gear
 
Does anyone know where I can get a parts list and parts diagram for the A&H GSR24m? I need to replace the Alt/ Spk switch. Tired of waiting on the local distributor to get back to me.
Old 3 days ago | Show parent
  #1378
Here for the gear
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by azone2 ➡️
ok, here we go. Board is open.

1) The CRM control is a 6-gang carbon pot. I'll wait for a price from A&H but in the meantime will probably just sample 4pcs from Taiwan Alpha so we have a lifetime supply.
2) The gain pots are 12mm conductive plastic. They use Alps RK11K-series (value is 10KA). They're standard 15mm shaft length (with bushing) so can probably find them in stock at Mouser or Digikey instead of buying for $$$ from an A&H distributor. Also look for Taiwan Alpha RV11-series, Bourns PTV111-series, & Soundwell RA11-series for direct substitutes.
3) The switches are not sealed, but they are decent quality parts. They may be able to be cleaned. I think I will target the ones that are currently bad.

All of the pots including the motorized faders are Alps parts, so they are good quality. Most controls aren't directly in the audio path, they're driving VCA's and such, so the potential for audible static is limited to the gain controls, some of the EQ controls, some of the monitor controls (CRM) etc..

Please don't try this at home unless qualified! I'm hoping this will help others with the same issues. I will keep updating as it goes.. any input from other users is greatly appreciated!
I’ve been trying to locate a parts list and diagram for the GSR24m. I need to replace the Alt / Speaker switch.No luck so far hope you can help.
Thanks in advance.
AW
📝 Reply

Similar Threads

Thread / Thread Starter Replies / Views Last Post
replies: 2042 views: 471913
Avatar for Adlen
Adlen 20th March 2012
replies: 295 views: 70913
Avatar for anguswoodhead
anguswoodhead 26th March 2013
replies: 114 views: 28297
Avatar for joe78
joe78 10th February 2021
replies: 1296 views: 176000
Avatar for heraldo_jones
heraldo_jones 1st February 2016
Post Reply

Welcome to the Gearspace Pro Audio Community!

Registration benefits include:
  • The ability to reply to and create new discussions
  • Access to members-only giveaways & competitions
  • Interact with VIP industry experts in our guest Q&As
  • Access to members-only sub forum discussions
  • Access to members-only Chat Room
  • Get INSTANT ACCESS to the world's best private pro audio Classifieds for only USD $20/year
  • Promote your eBay auctions and Reverb.com listings for free
  • Remove this message!
You need an account to post a reply. Create a username and password below and an account will be created and your post entered.


 
 
Slide to join now Processing…

Forum Jump
Forum Jump