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Soundcraft Spirit Studio
Old 26th October 2020
  #271
Here for the gear
 
Someone gave theses references in this thread, with some other parts:

DF0516 SWT PUSH 2P (SUN TYPE) 2 Pole Latch Switch (Mechanically Latching)

DF0520 SWT PUSH MOM 2P SUN 2 Pole MOM Switch (Electronic Latching)

Hard to find with google, but I found this:
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Soundcraft-M...-/233029841085

EDIT: but they are not new in this case.

Apparently, theses references are "internal" Soundcraft ones, it's not a commercial reference of a specific brand. It's seems that Soundcraft gave them in some old manuals (like the 400B mixing desk) and you could contact them to have some supply, for personal maintenance. May be it's still possible to contact them ?
Old 28th October 2020 | Show parent
  #272
Lives for gear
 
🎧 10 years
I actually opted for buying a spare channel of a Spirit Auto for pretty cheap. The boards look pretty much identical and I’m positive they’re the same switches. Gonna desolder the switches and pots off of it and keep them as backups.
Old 28th October 2020 | Show parent
  #273
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Sonic Lush's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
I love my CAL modded Spirit Studio. Cheers

Last edited by Sonic Lush; 15th December 2020 at 05:17 AM.. Reason: citrus
Old 30th November 2020
  #274
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gravyface's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 5 years
Spirit owners: any regrets?
Old 14th December 2020 | Show parent
  #275
Gear Maniac
 
7 Reviews written
🎧 10 years
working on my spirit studio 16



If you are careful you can take the individual channels and main board out and work on it.
Old 10th January 2021
  #276
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Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Hmmm gotta bump this here.. Been pretty happy with the LX7 line so far, had a 16 channel original that I swapped out for a 24 channel LX7-II last year. Awesome boards but I would love if all 24 channels had direct outputs, and Id really like the tape return section.. All of my effects returns and a few of my synths go into ch's 17-24 so Im always having to patch those when its time to record them or do them in groups with the busses (doesn't it actually have a bunch of Aux Returns I could use?). Found a Spirit Studio 24 here locally for peanuts (I just have to drive an hour or so to get it).. Its not the LC, its the original one, Im guessing it came out when the original LX7 did because it has the same style knobs on it..

Compared to the newer LX7-II am I going backwards here?? If anything I noticed the EQ on the old LX7 gets 'dirtier' than the LX7-II, the II model seems to be a bit cleaner so to speak.. Would really love to have the full record/mix setup, but I dont wanna go waste my money if I won't be getting anything out of it..
Old 9th April 2021 | Show parent
  #277
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Hmmm gotta bump this here.. Been pretty happy with the LX7 line so far, had a 16 channel original that I swapped out for a 24 channel LX7-II last year. Awesome boards but I would love if all 24 channels had direct outputs, and Id really like the tape return section..
Love the looks on the LX7-IIs. They're one single big board though if I understand correctly, so harder to work on when needed.
Old 9th April 2021 | Show parent
  #278
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Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN ➡️
Love the looks on the LX7-IIs. They're one single big board though if I understand correctly, so harder to work on when needed.
Havent opened either one up yet, but most of their newer stuff are groups of 8 channels.

Never did get anyone to tell me how big the Spirit Studio was, local guy on Ebay had one for $200 but was too lazy to get out a tape measure and told me to 'find it online' which was impossible. Ended up getting one in March and yep, thing is too damn big but I bought it anyways and had to rearrange my entire room just to fit it in here. Had to buy another rack and transplant a bunch of gear just make a 'table' for it to sit on heh. Havent opened this one up yet either (but need to this weekend to check out the master pcb in it) but its definitely all modular..
Old 10th April 2021 | Show parent
  #279
Here for the gear
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Havent opened either one up yet, but most of their newer stuff are groups of 8 channels.

Never did get anyone to tell me how big the Spirit Studio was, local guy on Ebay had one for $200 but was too lazy to get out a tape measure and told me to 'find it online' which was impossible. Ended up getting one in March and yep, thing is too damn big but I bought it anyways and had to rearrange my entire room just to fit it in here. Had to buy another rack and transplant a bunch of gear just make a 'table' for it to sit on heh. Havent opened this one up yet either (but need to this weekend to check out the master pcb in it) but its definitely all modular..
Love those old Studio Spirit boards , each channel,buss and master channels are separate pcb cards , anytime I've had a problem with those boards it was almost always the ribbon connector.

If you start getting that "ghost in the machine" odd crackles 9 out of 10 times it's a leaky cap.

Which power supply do you have ? CPS 150 ? do your self a favor and try and find a CPS275,CPS450 , you'll need to rig up a power link cable, or have the one in the board changed to use the larger 10 pin connector or one of the PSM 290/300 which also use the 10 pin conector... the 150 gets "taxed" hard if your using 20 or more channels at once, the 32 channel version came with a CPS450

The Studio spirit boards are the channel architecture that the Ghost boards were based on.
Old 11th April 2021 | Show parent
  #280
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Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by ric3xrt ➡️
Love those old Studio Spirit boards , each channel,buss and master channels are separate pcb cards , anytime I've had a problem with those boards it was almost always the ribbon connector.

If you start getting that "ghost in the machine" odd crackles 9 out of 10 times it's a leaky cap.

Which power supply do you have ? CPS 150 ? do your self a favor and try and find a CPS275,CPS450 , you'll need to rig up a power link cable, or have the one in the board changed to use the larger 10 pin connector or one of the PSM 290/300 which also use the 10 pin conector... the 150 gets "taxed" hard if your using 20 or more channels at once, the 32 channel version came with a CPS450

The Studio spirit boards are the channel architecture that the Ghost boards were based on.
I still havent opened it up yet but I need to (maybe tomorrow hehe). The meters are wonky, but so far this is the only trouble Ive had other than a sticky button that needed to be worked. The LEDs in the meters are very dim for the most part, but once in awhile they'll light up at full blast like theyre supposed to, then back to dim. Last time I was working, they weren't coming on at all. I hope its just a loose connector somewhere.

I have the 150. I figure for now Im safe. Im not using any of the mic pres or 48v, just a bunch of sampler and synth outputs to the line ins, about 20 channels. The sends/returns are all wired into the MOTU and Ferrofish for DAW action. Kinda bummed there was a Blue Dog PSU locally here about a month ago that I slept on and someone picked it up for $299. So a 450/650 will work if I just rewire the connector? I have the service bulletin about replacing the bridge rectos in the 150, should I not bother or would that solve all the problems right there?
Old 11th April 2021 | Show parent
  #281
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
I have the 150. I figure for now Im safe. Im not using any of the mic pres or 48v, just a bunch of sampler and synth outputs to the line ins, about 20 channels.
Unfortunately, not so safe: the CPS-150 has a few issues by default, the three main ones being it is quite under-powered for more than I believe 8 Channels + 4 Groups, secondly the bridge rectifiers are not as highly specced as they should be, and thirdly the Phantom Power Regulator's Set Resistor on the PCB is under-rated for what is needed in that spot.

You can get away with it for a while, but it will develop failures.

Another worrying thing I heard is that there is a 'Supercap' as main Reservoir cap and this can fail with catastrophic results for the console itself.

You could also get a larger CPS PSU but I think it would be necessary here to also check for design flaws like the above, especially those Set Resistors. There's that flaw still in my Soundcraft Compact 4 which is a much more recent design...

You have a couple of options:

1. Re-work the CPS-150 to remove some of the flaws. However, for 20+ channels it will still be under-powered because of the transformer

2. As recommended by Jim Williams, buy two Power One Linear Regulated supplies, one dual-rail which has 15 in the model and ask Power One how to configure it for outputting the +/-17V for the console and a second smaller one for the Phantom Power.

Option 2 in your case sounds like the better one.

There's a document around regarding some of the CPS-150 mods for #1 .

You could also get a larger CPS PSU but here it would be necessary to also check for those design flaws, because even the Compact 4 which is a later design has a Set Resistor which is under-powered.

Last edited by YashN; 3 weeks ago at 08:08 AM.. Reason: only 2 Power One PSUs needed
Old 11th April 2021 | Show parent
  #282
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YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Kinda bummed there was a Blue Dog PSU locally here about a month ago that I slept on and someone picked it up for $299.
On the contrary, be happy you dodged that SMPS of a bullet!
Old 4 weeks ago | Show parent
  #283
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Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN ➡️
On the contrary, be happy you dodged that SMPS of a bullet!
The BlueDog might have been a better option hah.

Finally opened up my 150 the other night just to take a look (Ive been sourcing new rectifiers and caps for it).. Looks like at some point one of the rectifiers did blow, maybe both hard to tell. One of them is no longer your standard packaged rectifier. There is literally a rectifier made up of four diodes soldered together in the one closest to the rear of the case. The other one looks stock but the board looks like its gotten singed under it at some point so who knows if this is the original or a replacement. The infamous resistor in the 48v section looks like its ready to go at any minute too, and coincidentally my 48v light sometimes flickers on the PSU.

Not very happy at this point. CPS275s seem to be frigging expensive (there's one for $1200 on Ebay?) and the 450s have extra voltage that the CPS150 doesn't so Im not sure what to do about the extra pins that supply +/-7.5v and 24v. After seeing the PSU, Im probably not turning this console on again. This thing was supposed to be 'the one' but its been one of those 'Should I have done that' moments since the minute I brought it home. Now Im going to end up paying another $3-500 to have a PSU made unless I can find a CPS275 for cheap. This thing is more than likely headed back for sale and I'll just go back to the LX7-II until I can find a 24 channel GB4 to replace it. Should've just kept everything the way it was and waited for a GB4 in the first place. All I really wanted was a full 24 direct outs, the tape returns were just a nice bonus to keep me from manually patching things, but thats what I bought all these patch cables for anyways.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #284
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YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
The BlueDog might have been a better option hah.
Not at all, it's the opposite, and I would never replace a Linear Regulated PSU by any SMPS. Some people don't care about Sound Quality though and prefer saving space here and having a more efficient PSU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Looks like at some point one of the rectifiers did blow, maybe both hard to tell. The infamous resistor in the 48v section looks like its ready to go at any minute too, and coincidentally my 48v light sometimes flickers on the PSU.
Yes, these are two of a set of things that need to be upgraded for the CPS-150. The info is around the forum. Typically, people recommend new bridge rectifiers for the Analogue sections, with larger peak current capability. That resistor needs to be changed, absolutely: use the same value but definitely use a larger Watt-rating, 1W or above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Not very happy at this point. CPS275s seem to be frigging expensive (there's one for $1200 on Ebay?) and the 450s have extra voltage that the CPS150
There's a much easier way out: get the Power One PSUs and ask them how to configure the outputs for the +/-17V operation, move the DC Power cable from the old CPS to the Power Ones.

It is still some work and verification to move over the DC Power cable.
Old 3 weeks ago
  #285
Gear Guru
10 amp rectifiers, 33,000 uf mains caps, 1000 uf secondary caps, .1 uf polyprop bypass caps and a 1 watt 2.7K phantom divider resistor make a CPS 150 work great. You must follow the Dirty Harry Rule:

"A man's got to know his limitations". Use them for 8 channel consoles.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #286
Lives for gear
 
Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams ➡️
10 amp rectifiers, 33,000 uf mains caps, 1000 uf secondary caps, .1 uf polyprop bypass caps and a 1 watt 2.7K phantom divider resistor make a CPS 150 work great. You must follow the Dirty Harry Rule:

"A man's got to know his limitations". Use them for 8 channel consoles.
Well this will be for a 24 but hopefully it will hold up for now. Boards all stock, phantom power is never used, and I try to make sure I keep the channels off I'm not using. I grabbed some 10A rectifiers after I saw you mention rebuilding one with em in one of these threads here. Also picked up the Nichicon caps too. I went with two 1/2w 5.6k resistors though. Figured I would spread out the heat while bumping up the rating too. I didn't even think about the secondary caps. Guess Ill do those this week too.

Replacement's are pretty pricey so not sure what Im going to do for the future. CPS-275s are twice what I paid for the console when I can find one. Would love to have CAL build one for me but its around the same price range. At least with them I know Im getting a brand new sturdy as hell PSU that will last til I die.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #287
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Boards all stock, phantom power is never used, and I try to make sure I keep the channels off I'm not using. I grabbed some 10A rectifiers after I saw you mention rebuilding one with em in one of these threads here. Also picked up the Nichicon caps too. I went with two 1/2w 5.6k resistors though. Figured I would spread out the heat while bumping up the rating too. I didn't even think about the secondary caps. Guess Ill do those this week too.
As Jim mentions, the PSU is reported to be under-powered for use with more than a Delta with 8 channels + 4 Groups. I get by with it because that's what I have so far. The Groups are mini-mixer channels merging two inputs, so we may consider them as equivalent to consuming the power of between 1 or 2 channels (maybe even less than 1 channel but I haven't looked at this too deep). So, you're counting in my config. between 8+4 and 8+8 'channels'. I'd say it's something like: 8 < actual number of 'channels' consuming power < 16.

8 more normal channels would most probably already be pushing it. And I think this is for the Line Inputs, not even counting the Phantom Power consumption.

Be extremely careful when you work on the PCB. While I probably used too much heat today, one via got sucked off and disappeared together with a little bit of trace, the other one was lifted. Perhaps my solder sucker (a manual one) is too powerful as well.

I put in a single res with higher wattage just a few minutes ago but your plan is good too.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #288
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams ➡️
1000 uf secondary caps
I almost forgot about those secondary caps: the existing ones are tiny little affairs! Do you reckon we also need to change the smaller secondary cap for the Phantom Power?

It's C34 and it's a 47uF as well, 63V here.

Since I have the CPS-150 open, I might as well take the time to do this too.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #289
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
I'll just go back to the LX7-II
I really like the look of this one. Shame it isn't a modular construction though. Imagine having to work on that in stages...

A modular version with that design would be awesome.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #290
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Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN ➡️
I really like the look of this one. Shame it isn't a modular construction though. Imagine having to work on that in stages...

A modular version with that design would be awesome.
The LX7II was just about perfect except on all those boards, you dont get 8 direct outputs on the last 8 channels. My original LX7 16 channel is really only good for recording 8 tracks, the 24 can do 16. I THINK the 32 has all direct outputs but that's too big. The 24 fit so nicely to my left at an angle so I always had it on hand while working. The Spirit sits over in the corner so I have to get up to put my hands on it. The GB series does have all direct outputs, but I lose the tape sends/returns which I can deal with manually. Think those channels are all in groups of 8 so yeah, no easy maintenance like the Spirit or Deltas.

Would a PSM work instead of a CPS? Those came with the Ghosts I believe. Found one for not too bad of a price, puts out [email protected]+/-17V and [email protected] no other 5v/24v/etc to worry about there, just wiring up a 10 pin cable.

On a bonus note. My Digikey order showed up earlier, wasnt supposed to be here until tomorrow. Might get it done tonight and get it over with. :D
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #291
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
The LX7II was just about perfect except on all those boards, you dont get 8 direct outputs on the last 8 channels. My original LX7 16 channel
I like the one with the symmetrical layout: two set of channels on either side and the group spot in the middle.

It's the colours too: the ones on my Soundcraft Delta are rather bland actually, they look pale in comparison.

Great news for the Digikey order then, although I heard they recently were having some trouble with delivering as fast as before because of the current restrictions. Good luck on the mods, let us know how they go!

Yep, another PSU which has the same Analogue + Phantom Voltage but higher current could do the trick too, hence the Power-One recommendations after setting them to +/-17.

I wonder if I could run the Delta to +/-18V for some additional headroom without issue.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #292
Gear Guru
Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN ➡️
I almost forgot about those secondary caps: the existing ones are tiny little affairs! Do you reckon we also need to change the smaller secondary cap for the Phantom Power?

It's C34 and it's a 47uF as well, 63V here.

Since I have the CPS-150 open, I might as well take the time to do this too.
I use a 220 uf 63V Panasonuic FR cap there. The primary cap is 1000 uf/100V.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #293
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YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams ➡️
I use a 220 uf 63V Panasonuic FR cap there. The primary cap is 1000 uf/100V.
Great idea to beef up C31 as well here.

It would be interesting to know if you arrange the components as RC or CR post Reg.

Did some mods yesterday on the CPS-150, with good results for the Dual-Rail - will probably do an update in my thread later.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #294
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams ➡️
The primary cap is 1000 uf/100V.
Having a hard time with the large blob of translucid and tough glue around it. Any tips?

I hesitate to use my heat gun but it might be the only way. This thing is tough.
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #295
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YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN ➡️
Having a hard time with the large blob of translucid and tough glue around it. Any tips?

I hesitate to use my heat gun but it might be the only way. This thing is tough.
What worked for me:

- Pass a small flat screwdriver in the space of the blob and the PCB, taking care to avoid components,

- Remove bits here and there with a pair of scissors,

- Detach large bits from the Capacitor itself once the blob is freed from the PCB.

One of my larger high-voltage caps easily fits in place of C31 so might do that.

I will re-check whether I find one to fit at the Reg output but this will require that the clearance beneath is large enough. I want to avoid having to drill larger holes for the legs and then needing bridge wires to be installed - the vias will pull off for sure. The boards at this time from SC were a bit flimsy, even the solder joints as I soon noticed on a malfunctioning Group when I got the Mixer.

Last edited by YashN; 3 weeks ago at 10:11 PM..
Old 3 weeks ago | Show parent
  #296
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YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monotremata ➡️
Would love to have CAL build one for me but its around the same price range. At least with them I know Im getting a brand new sturdy as hell PSU that will last til I die.
Just saw their Power House PSU page after some time. Yes, those measurements comparison do look great.

Note their text:

"Great News for vintage console owners who need a replacement...; for engineers who want to upgrade to new op-amps and need extra current; or to replace noisy switch-mode supplies.

The Power House PH.4.13 is built with beefy, medical grade, linear power modules that have the best possible specs. We add a few modifications of our own to make them track together, give them soft turn-on and trim the voltages for maximum headroom."

Replacing the original CPS-150 with an SMPS would be even worse than the default CPS-150.

I modified my Dual-Rail to output +/-18V late last night.

With the rest of the mods (Caps beefed up, higher wattage resistor) done, I listened to my Kurzweil K2500 and it sounded fantastic, great extension in bass and highs.

In the process of doing some more right now.

Last edited by YashN; 3 weeks ago at 10:32 PM..
Old 3 weeks ago
  #297
Gear Guru
Anyone can add a slow turn on mod to any 723 regulator power supply from Power One or International Power. Solder a 220 resistor in series with a 47 uf cap from pin 2 to pin 3 of the 783. Place the + lead towards pin 2.

That slows the turn on rate so large loads won't lock the supply up upon turn on as the surge/rush current is high in a large analog console.
Old 2 weeks ago | Show parent
  #298
Gear Addict
 
YashN's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams ➡️
I use a 220 uf 63V Panasonuic FR cap there.
+ film bypass across it too?

I have two 47uf for now, may add another 100uF to these later today as I also want to add bypass caps to the Dual-Rail supplies this afternoon. I do have a few 0.1uF film ones.
Old 2 weeks ago
  #299
Here for the gear
 
Hi,

Does someone know the mcd value (at 20mA for instance) of the original leds ? I replaced a few ones but they are way brighter (around 120 mcd at 20mA).

Adapting the circuit to work with brighter leds is not impossible by changing a single resistor, but you would have to change the 4 ones at once on the mono channel, or all the ones in a vu-meter strip, because they share the same resistor...
Old 2 weeks ago
  #300
Lives for gear
 
Monotremata's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Well it was sort of awesome, only took about 30 minutes or so to desolder and replace the 48v resistor, the two caps and the rectifiers. Now Ive got NO 17v at all, I actually went from a working PSU to a dead one now. At least the 48 LED is nice and bright and no more flickering. The rectifier pads looked pretty jacked when I removed the old ones, think a couple need to be reworked now, and of course I have no idea where in the garage my multimeter is. Yay time to spend about another $100 on some silver epoxy and a new multimeter. This things on its way to becoming a money pit less than a month in. Good thing I didnt get rid of either of my LX7s. Thats probably getting reinstalled once I find some place to store this dead hunk of weight.
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