Quantcast
Just bought an MCI 416b for $800. - Gearspace.com
The No.1 Website for Pro Audio
Just bought an MCI 416b for $800.
Old 31st January 2009
  #1
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Just bought a MCI 416b for $800.

I found this board right here in Austin on Craigslist. A girl inherited it from her dad and was trying to sell it on Craigslist. She didn't even know what it was but I recognized it from the pictures she posted. I pulled a few channel strips and they look to be in good shape although I'm sure I'm gonna have to recap. Time to break out the soldering iron. It came with three power supplies and a bunch of cabling. Anyway, I'm pretty excited to finally get one of these, as I've been wanting one for a while and totally just lucked out that there was one here in Austin for only $800. This is going to be fun.

Anybody know where I can get the schematics for this thing? I'm picking the console up on Monday or Tuesday but here's the Craigslist add with a few pics if anybody's interested.

http://austin.***************/msg/1011766760.html

Last edited by Quint; 1st February 2009 at 02:05 AM.. Reason: title
Old 31st January 2009
  #2
Lives for gear
 
Cameron Johnson's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
You son of a gun!

Don't mind that I now hate you and will now put a curse on your well-being :oP

Congrads on the steal! There should be a number of people who have the specs and schematics that you need. Good luck!
Old 31st January 2009 | Show parent
  #3
Lives for gear
 
🎧 15 years
I hate you, congrats. There are several versions out there make sure you get the correct schematic. Good Luck
Old 31st January 2009 | Show parent
  #4
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesaustin ➑️
I hate you, congrats. There are several versions out there make sure you get the correct schematic. Good Luck
Yeah, it's gonna take some learning on my part but I'm totally willing to put the work in to get this thing up and running. Can't wait to play with it. I know you have a 400 series right? Did you upgrade your power supplies when you bought the console or just recap (and whatever else) the original power supplies?
Old 31st January 2009 | Show parent
  #5
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
And operation manuals too. I need to find those and the schematics.
Old 31st January 2009 | Show parent
  #6
Lives for gear
 
timtoonz's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Holy crap!

I thought I got a deal coz I got mine for 2,000... And then it cost almost that much again to ship it from San Diego to Canada.

But it's been worth it. I use it every day, and I still say it would've been more expensive to get 16+ channels of pres and eqs to record drums and sum my mixes. Plus it's way more fun this way.

Look for Blevins Audio and/or Chris Nash (hangs out here on GS) - he did some service on my board and he's really fantastic.


Now if you find a line on an extender board, CALL ME!
Old 1st February 2009 | Show parent
  #7
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by timtoonz ➑️
Holy crap!

I thought I got a deal coz I got mine for 2,000... And then it cost almost that much again to ship it from San Diego to Canada.

But it's been worth it. I use it every day, and I still say it would've been more expensive to get 16+ channels of pres and eqs to record drums and sum my mixes. Plus it's way more fun this way.

Look for Blevins Audio and/or Chris Nash (hangs out here on GS) - he did some service on my board and he's really fantastic.


Now if you find a line on an extender board, CALL ME!
How many channels is your's? Mine has 20 channels but I'd like to eventually hunt up an additional four channel strips. I've already talked to Randy several times. He's probably gonna be the guy I get my tape machine from unless I find another deal like this one (won't happen).
Old 1st February 2009 | Show parent
  #8
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
By the way, what's the best way to transport this thing? I'm gonna go pick it up and put in the bed of my truck. Should it ride on it's back or on it's bottom? Channel strips in or out? Any other good advice on moving these things? I'm only gonna be driving about 30 minutes with it but I'd hate to damage it somehow.
Old 1st February 2009 | Show parent
  #9
Lives for gear
 
timtoonz's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quint ➑️
By the way, what's the best way to transport this thing? I'm gonna go pick it up and put in the bed of my truck. Should it ride on it's back or on it's bottom? Channel strips in or out? Any other good advice on moving these things? I'm only gonna be driving about 30 minutes with it but I'd hate to damage it somehow.
Mine came in a custom crate, channels still in. Arrived safe and sound all the way from San Diego to Toronto...

I've got 24 channels, 2 of which were flakey and so we cannibalized'em for parts to spruce up the remaining 22. There's also a funky 8 channel extension on mine where the producer's desk used to be. Good for effects returns, but some of the wiring was iffy so the tech (aforementioned Mr. Nash) suggested we unhook it until it can be gone over in more detail.

It's definitely not a state of the art board, but I've been mixing on it all week and I totally love what it does to ITB mixes. Maybe it's just my old school analogue brain, but it seems there's way more headroom and way more flexibility to get a mix sounding "right" when you go through the board. And the limited EQ/routing isn't such an issue nowadays when your computer has umpteen plugin EQ's and comps where you need'em. The 'hybrid system' is the way to go, in my opinion.

That said, I only use my board for mixing "fun stuff" where I don't need the total recall that's necessary when I do stuff for broadcast. But even then, the board comes in very handy as 14 channels of 'ready to go' drum pre's and eqs.

Good luck with it! I'd give you more technical advice, but I'm totally useless at that stuff. Wish I'd taken an electronics course... Find a good tech, and they'll probably suggest going over the master section first, then maybe replacing some op-amps here and there.
Old 1st February 2009 | Show parent
  #10
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Oh, and she doesn't know where the legs are at so I'm gonna have to make some or find some on ebay or something. It looks like the legs probably just have two steel pins that stick up and go in two holes that I noticed in the bottom edge on each side. Or is there more to it?
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #11
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Cool... I bought an MCI 500 down in Texas in November.. Something about Texas and MCI I guess.

The BEST way for it to travel is modules in with everything tight!!! That being said, I've transported many consoles with the modules out (they are lighter that way) heh and had very few issues.

Regardless, be careful not to stress the frame in any out of the ordinary way, those circuit boards in the MCI's don't like that!!!! you'll probably end up hitting everything with a soldering iron just to be safe anyway though.

I'm sure it'll need a recap. DO NOT power it up with all the modules in!!!! Pull everything, THEN power up, no need to stress any marginal components any further.

I've gotten fairly educated on my pair of MCI 500s, the 400 is a breeze copared to those!!! Lots of 400 documentation floating around and loads of people that have worked on them.

Have fun, go slow, and enjoy the ride!!!
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #12
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
Cool... I bought an MCI 500 down in Texas in November.. Something about Texas and MCI I guess.

The BEST way for it to travel is modules in with everything tight!!! That being said, I've transported many consoles with the modules out (they are lighter that way) heh and had very few issues.

Regardless, be careful not to stress the frame in any out of the ordinary way, those circuit boards in the MCI's don't like that!!!! you'll probably end up hitting everything with a soldering iron just to be safe anyway though.

I'm sure it'll need a recap. DO NOT power it up with all the modules in!!!! Pull everything, THEN power up, no need to stress any marginal components any further.

I've gotten fairly educated on my pair of MCI 500s, the 400 is a breeze copared to those!!! Lots of 400 documentation floating around and loads of people that have worked on them.

Have fun, go slow, and enjoy the ride!!!
Pulling the modules is a good idea. So I guess you mean that I should pull ALL of the modules then? Even the Master section? Can I then put one module in at a time with the power on? My inital inclination is that putting anything in with the power on could be a bad idea. Is that a wrong assumption?
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #13
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
So you know where I can pick up a pair of legs? I'm sure that I can make a pair if need be. It would just be easier to buy a pre made pair if possible. Or do you maybe have any suggestions/advice on how somebody would go about making a pair of legs? Building the legs doesn't scare me. I know how to weld and do wood work.
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #14
Gear Nut
 
🎧 15 years
You don't want to be plugging(or unplugging) modules with the power on! It will burn the traces at the edge of the board. I assume what he meant was try powering it up with no modules first, and see if anything smokes. Then if it's ok power it down, stick a few modules in and power it up again and check it out. Continue until you've got em all in.
Cool board at an amazing price. Congrats---
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #15
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velvetfreddy ➑️
You don't want to be plugging(or unplugging) modules with the power on! It will burn the traces at the edge of the board. I assume what he meant was try powering it up with no modules first, and see if anything smokes. Then if it's ok power it down, stick a few modules in and power it up again and check it out. Continue until you've got em all in.
Cool board at an amazing price. Congrats---
That's what I figured. I don't know of many situations where you can "hot plug" things like this. So I guess I'll pull everything and then if nothing blows up I'll put the master section in first and go from there. Still gonna have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case.
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #16
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
You'll probably be making yourself some legs.... I've never seen any spare legs

If you have an air compressor, blow the frame out for a good 20 min... then do it some more!!! These things tend to have a lot of junk saved up over the years.

Pull EVERYTHING, power on, (actually if you could power on the power supplies with a dummy plug first that would be best) Test the voltages at the test points and at the console, at the module connector, and make sure everything is cool.

THEN, put one module in and a master modules in and see if it'll pass signal.

Can't be too careful when the condition is unknown on these old consoles.
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #17
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
You'll probably be making yourself some legs.... I've never seen any spare legs

If you have an air compressor, blow the frame out for a good 20 min... then do it some more!!! These things tend to have a lot of junk saved up over the years.

Pull EVERYTHING, power on, (actually if you could power on the power supplies with a dummy plug first that would be best) Test the voltages at the test points and at the console, at the module connector, and make sure everything is cool.

THEN, put one module in and a master modules in and see if it'll pass signal.

Can't be too careful when the condition is unknown on these old consoles.
Dummy plug? Not sure what you mean by that. Also, I would assume that all of the test points are listed in the manual?
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #18
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Dummy plug, so the sense voltage can sniff the voltage down the line.

It'll all start making sense soon enough heh

Essentially, you take a Cinch Jones connector and loop the sense voltage pin to the pins carrying voltage.

When you start staring at schematics and the power supplies, you'll see it all. On the front of the power supplies there are test points.

There are barrier strips on the console, you'll want to double check, then triple check that everything is wired correctly there. Then measure on the circuit board or the actual slot where the module plugs in.

Like I said, no harm in taking precautions on an unknown board!!
Old 2nd February 2009 | Show parent
  #19
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
Dummy plug, so the sense voltage can sniff the voltage down the line.

It'll all start making sense soon enough heh

Essentially, you take a Cinch Jones connector and loop the sense voltage pin to the pins carrying voltage.

When you start staring at schematics and the power supplies, you'll see it all. On the front of the power supplies there are test points.

There are barrier strips on the console, you'll want to double check, then triple check that everything is wired correctly there. Then measure on the circuit board or the actual slot where the module plugs in.

Like I said, no harm in taking precautions on an unknown board!!
I've still gotta get a hold of some schematics and manual(s). Can't really do much until I get a hold of those.
Old 6th February 2009 | Show parent
  #20
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
You'll probably be making yourself some legs.... I've never seen any spare legs

If you have an air compressor, blow the frame out for a good 20 min... then do it some more!!! These things tend to have a lot of junk saved up over the years.

Pull EVERYTHING, power on, (actually if you could power on the power supplies with a dummy plug first that would be best) Test the voltages at the test points and at the console, at the module connector, and make sure everything is cool.

THEN, put one module in and a master modules in and see if it'll pass signal.

Can't be too careful when the condition is unknown on these old consoles.
Would anybody with a 416 mind doing me a favor and measure their legs so I can have a few dimensions to work with?
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #21
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
So did you get it picked up? How did it go?
I need an MCI fix today!!!
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #22
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
So did you get it picked up? How did it go?
I need an MCI fix today!!!
Yeah, I picked it up this weekend. Heavy son of a bitch. It's definitely a 416b, not a. So is it just the a that has the unbuffered VU's or is it both the a and b? It was made in July 73 and apparently spent some time in Nashville because the big snake that came with the board apparently was a custom job made by somebody (I forget the company) in Nashville.

I got it home and pulled the channel strips. This thing is in great shape. It was recapped somewhere along the way with Nichicons (blue, 100uf I think). I'll still probably have to recap it since I believe it sat for a while. I'm planning on trying to build some legs for it this week or weekend sometime. I powered up the power supplies and all three of them turned on with the fans going. I still need to actually hook them up to the board.

There's no brand name anywhere on these power supplies so does that mean that they are the original MCI power supplies? By the way, I've only found one plug in the back of the console that looks like it hooks up to the power supply. Do you have any thoughts on where the rest of them are? I also need to replace a bunch of glass covers on the meter bridge. Plexiglass cut to size should probably work for that huh?

By the way, I read in another thread that you said Rob s posted a thread involving 400 series mods. I couldn't find it. What's the title of the thread? I'm especially interested in the buffered VU mod if the b version doesn't have buffered VU's.
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #23
Lives for gear
 
🎧 15 years
I have a late A 76 and it has buffered vu's. I believe the b has buffered vu's
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #24
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quint ➑️
Yeah, I picked it up this weekend. Heavy son of a bitch. It's definitely a 416b, not a. So is it just the a that has the unbuffered VU's or is it both the a and b? It was made in July 73 and apparently spent some time in Nashville because the big snake that came with the board apparently was a custom job made by somebody (I forget the company) in Nashville.

I got it home and pulled the channel strips. This thing is in great shape. It was recapped somewhere along the way with Nichicons (blue, 100uf I think). I'll still probably have to recap it since I believe it sat for a while. I'm planning on trying to build some legs for it this week or weekend sometime. I powered up the power supplies and all three of them turned on with the fans going. I still need to actually hook them up to the board.

There's no brand name anywhere on these power supplies so does that mean that they are the original MCI power supplies? By the way, I've only found one plug in the back of the console that looks like it hooks up to the power supply. Do you have any thoughts on where the rest of them are? I also need to replace a bunch of glass covers on the meter bridge. Plexiglass cut to size should probably work for that huh?

By the way, I read in another thread that you said Rob s posted a thread involving 400 series mods. I couldn't find it. What's the title of the thread? I'm especially interested in the buffered VU mod if the b version doesn't have buffered VU's.
Unless someone did something different, you should see a barrier strip to wire the power supplies to the console. All the power supplies I've seen have the drab brown MCI paint job on them, should have some markings somewhere on them, at least say Ft Lauderdale on them???
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #25
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesaustin ➑️
I have a late A 76 and it has buffered vu's. I believe the b has buffered vu's
Isn't your's a 428 though? Mines a 73 416. Or does everything from the 416b onward have buffered VU's? How do I tell if mine has buffered VU's?
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #26
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
Unless someone did something different, you should see a barrier strip to wire the power supplies to the console. All the power supplies I've seen have the drab brown MCI paint job on them, should have some markings somewhere on them, at least say Ft Lauderdale on them???
Yeah, there is a barrier strip there and I figured that's what it was for. There's just no cables attached to them that can attach to the power supplies. Is it hard to come by these cables? They have some kind of special connection on the ends. My power supplies are all identical and black. They've got a switch and fuse in the middle of the front and a removable vent plate on the right that allows access to a circuit board on the front. I don't see any markings but I'll look again.
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #27
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quint ➑️
Yeah, there is a barrier strip there and I figured that's what it was for. There's just no cables attached to them that can attach to the power supplies. Is it hard to come by these cables? They have some kind of special connection on the ends. My power supplies are all identical and black. They've got a switch and fuse in the middle of the front and a removable vent plate that allows access to a circuit board on the front.
Those connectors are called "Cinch Jones" they'll be on the side that plugs into the power supply, you hard wire into them into the console... REALLY need a manual for that one!

My 528 is from 76 and has un-buffered meters. I've got 24 buffered meters that I'm going to replace them with... when I get around to it.
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #28
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
https://gearspace.com/board/so-much-...chnapf-14.html

this thread has some info on what Rob has had done to his 400...
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #29
Lives for gear
 
Quint's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyt ➑️
Those connectors are called "Cinch Jones" they'll be on the side that plugs into the power supply, you hard wire into them into the console... REALLY need a manual for that one!

My 528 is from 76 and has un-buffered meters. I've got 24 buffered meters that I'm going to replace them with... when I get around to it.
I've seen Cinch Jones a million times here on GS and now I finally know what that means. The inside of my console actually has a sticker next to the barrier strip that points out what each row of screws goes to (ie., phantom, Vu's, and audio power). Does your's not have this labeling? Also, how do I tell if my VU's are buffered or not?
Old 10th February 2009 | Show parent
  #30
Lives for gear
 
analogtodd's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
If they are unbuffered, you won't have anything between the motherboard and the meter. If your meter has a little circuit board attached to it with a couple of components, its buffered.

Thats the easiest... when I get home tonight I'll take a couple pics of mine just for reference.

Again, step slowly with power, just because someone wrote a diagram doesn't mean its right. I've learned to never assume anything!

Does the 400b series have 48v stock, or was that added??? I don't think the 500 series had switchable stock 48v until late the late "C"'s
πŸ“ Reply

Similar Threads

Thread / Thread Starter Replies / Views Last Post
replies: 63 views: 23134
Avatar for 127Riot
127Riot 2nd May 2019
replies: 353 views: 63709
Avatar for c1ferrari
c1ferrari 15th June 2020
replies: 62 views: 11171
Avatar for captainscorpo
captainscorpo 13th February 2019
replies: 60 views: 9228
Avatar for 2Low
2Low 5th November 2019
Post Reply

Welcome to the Gearspace Pro Audio Community!

Registration benefits include:
  • The ability to reply to and create new discussions
  • Access to members-only giveaways & competitions
  • Interact with VIP industry experts in our guest Q&As
  • Access to members-only sub forum discussions
  • Access to members-only Chat Room
  • Get INSTANT ACCESS to the world's best private pro audio Classifieds for only USD $20/year
  • Promote your eBay auctions and Reverb.com listings for free
  • Remove this message!
You need an account to post a reply. Create a username and password below and an account will be created and your post entered.


 
 
Slide to join now Processing…

Forum Jump
Forum Jump