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Slightly More Colored API 2500?
Old 26th January 2009
  #1
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🎧 10 years
Slightly More Colored API 2500?

I just picked up a 2500 for my Mix Buss compressor. I'm really digging it but wonder if there's something slightly more colored in an analog warmth type of way. I'm mixing ITB and running out to the API. I really like the way the 2500 is set-up however.
Any thoughts?
Old 26th January 2009
  #2
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Space Station's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Well the 2500 is a pretty coloured compressor anyway....but I'd probably steer you towards the Fatso.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #3
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compared to some gears, i feel API 2500 is actually not that colored. to my ears anyway.

to OP, what i do is run the mix thru a 1272 afterwards to get it more round and warm sounding.

or the new UBK Fatso... it's real colored, very analog sounding!
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #4
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TonyBelmont's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblotted ➑️
compared to some gears, i feel API 2500 is actually not that colored. to my ears anyway.

to OP, what i do is run the mix thru a 1272 afterwards to get it more round and warm sounding.


I think running through a 1272 prior to the 2500 could give you the extra low end coloration (my guess what you mean by "warmth") you are looking for. Assuming you like how the 2500 compresses.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #5
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Space Station's Avatar
 
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Well just be clear when I say coloured I do not mean 'warm and rounded' they are two different things to me.

I find the API coloured in the sense it is enhances the Mid-range quite a bit to my ears IE 'mid range colouration'...which helps things sound large with more stereo width than say an SSL G series. That colour defintely helps on the guitar bus.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #6
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🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Space Station ➑️
Well just be clear when I say coloured I do not mean 'warm and rounded' they are two different things to me.

I find the API coloured in the sense it is enhances the Mid-range quite a bit to my ears IE 'mid range colouration'...which helps things sound large with more stereo width than say an SSL G series. That colour defintely helps on the guitar bus.
Yes, the API's are definitely more mid-forward and punchy. The OP was asking for more "analog warmth", which I usually translate into wanting a more saturated low end.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #7
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duvalle's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyBelmont ➑️


I think running through a 1272 prior to the 2500 could give you ...
that's how i do it (using a line-pad).
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #8
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🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblotted ➑️
compared to some gears, i feel API 2500 is actually not that colored. to my ears anyway.

to OP, what i do is run the mix thru a 1272 afterwards to get it more round and warm sounding.

or the new UBK Fatso... it's real colored, very analog sounding!


Cool - I'll have to check that out.

FWIW I'm just looking for more color/warmth overall. Not necessarily a rounder low end. I still want it punchy but with a little less digital and some "Vibe".
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #9
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UpNSmoke's Avatar
 
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what A/D/A converters are you using?
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNSmoke ➑️
what A/D/A converters are you using?

I'm running in and out of my 192. That's probably part of the problem.

I'm on a budget to only get one piece at the moment and I'm looking for something that gives me a noticeable improvement on my ITB digital sound. I realize it's all cumulative but that's where I am right now.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #11
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UpNSmoke's Avatar
 
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Lemme tell ya brother, running an API2500 into a 192 (I'm assuming this is the stock MOTU unit?) is like putting cotton in your ears after the fact and and trying to figure out why you lost some high-end tutt

trust me, before you shell out for any more outboard gear, get some GREAT converters. If you're on a budget the Lynx are a huge step up. check the Gearslutz classifieds or post a WTB ad for an Aurora 8 unit. You'll notice a huge improvement in depth, tonality, and clarity. If you're just doing 2-track stuff you can't beat either the Burl or UA 2192 for that 'analog warmth' - kills on electric guitars.

Michael
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #12
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[quote=UpNSmoke;3852803]Lemme tell ya brother, running an API2500 into a 192 (I'm assuming this is the stock MOTU unit?) is like putting cotton in your ears after the fact and and trying to figure out why you lost some high-end tutt

It's the Pro Tools 192 converter. I've looked at the Burl before but like I said I can only get one piece of gear in the 2-3k range at the moment.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Old 26th January 2009
  #13
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4 Reviews written
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by tickdoker ➑️
Any thoughts?
1) Get the sounds already happening before you hit the 2 buss

2) Mix through a Chandler mini mixer

Waiting till the end alot of times is not enough.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #14
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[QUOTE=tickdoker;3852824]
Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNSmoke ➑️
Lemme tell ya brother, running an API2500 into a 192 (I'm assuming this is the stock MOTU unit?) is like putting cotton in your ears after the fact and and trying to figure out why you lost some high-end tutt

It's the Pro Tools 192 converter. I've looked at the Burl before but like I said I can only get one piece of gear in the 2-3k range at the moment.

Thanks for the suggestions.
ah I stand corrected.

I think I know the sound you're looking for and you'll find it in spades with either the Burl or the 2192 - I've owned the latter and the transformers really round things out in a tape-like style - much better than the FATSO. I've heard the Chandler Mixer and felt it was way overpriced for what it did to the sound. Also look into a pair of Avedis MA5 pres for use as a line driver. <M
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #15
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[quote=UpNSmoke;3852839]
Quote:
Originally Posted by tickdoker ➑️
I think I know the sound you're looking for and you'll find it in spades with either the Burl or the 2192 - I've owned the latter and the transformers really round things out in a tape-like style - much better than the FATSO. I've heard the Chandler Mixer and felt it was way overpriced for what it did to the sound. Also look into a pair of Avedis MA5 pres for use as a line driver. <M

I'm sure that would make a huge difference, but I just got the 2500 so I can still return it. My 2-3k is just for one item. Maybe I would get a better sound with those converters on everything on the way in then trying to put a magic box to run my mixes through? I'm sure the 2500 is a fantastic box in the right hands in the right circumstances, but I'm not sure I'm getting enough out of it for the bread. Maybe some more time with it perhaps.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #16
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UpNSmoke's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Here's what I would suggest, but of course your ears will be the final judge:

1. Return the API 2500 (if you must - I own it and love it).

2. use that $ to get a UA2192 - as I said before, these are trying time economically so check the classified first. I've owned it and can guarantee it's probably what you're looking for. However, I did sell it and upgrade to a Weiss ADC2 - but that's about $5k more than what you want to spend.

3. Track everything with your 2192 and you will get that warmth you're looking for.

4. W/ the money you save buy the Sonnox Oxford Dynamics plug-in and strap that across your Mix buss - they're actually on sale right now. I bough the Elite bundle and they're the ONLY plugs I'm using.

BTW, I would suggest doing a Google shopping search - I think last I checked B&H Photo had the cheapest prices on the 2192. And if you decide to buy used, don't let any of these dealers give you some bull**** about a warranty and 'tech support' as I know UA stand behind all their gear even if it's used. and just to let you know, I'm not affiliated with any of these companies.

hope this helps,
Michael
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #17
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Empire Prod's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
You could get a Zener Limiter. Never heard anyone say that wasn't colored enough.
Old 26th January 2009
  #18
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All very helpful suggestions. I'm thinking I'll probably return the API. Better converters are always a smart choice. Are there any other 2Buss compressor suggestions out there with some mojo?
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #19
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shayneallen's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
The portico 5043 is well worth checking out man. with your budget you can come close to better conversion AND a 5043. I dug the 2500 alot, but for 2 bus actually preferred the portico. I landed on a fearn, but still love the 5043!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tickdoker ➑️
All very helpful suggestions. I'm thinking I'll probably return the API. Better converters are always a smart choice. Are there any other 2Buss compressor suggestions out there with some mojo?
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #20
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RoundBadge's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by tickdoker ➑️
Are there any other 2Buss compressor suggestions out there with some mojo?
you might want to demo a Vintage Designs CL1mk2
kind of a cross btw an old Neve 2254 but with the tightness/openess of a 33609jd and handy variable attack/ HPF sidechain
I'm about to swap a 33609jd for one
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #21
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theblotted's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyBelmont ➑️
Yes, the API's are definitely more mid-forward and punchy. The OP was asking for more "analog warmth", which I usually translate into wanting a more saturated low end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyBelmont ➑️


I think running through a 1272 prior to the 2500 could give you the extra low end coloration (my guess what you mean by "warmth") you are looking for. Assuming you like how the 2500 compresses.
i actually disagree...

i find the API2500 give a smiley face curve, boosting the high's and low's, while tightening the low-mid's. if you level match the source and processed audio, you'll hear it.

and running the 1272 prior will hit 2500 too hard, hence i put it AFTERWARDS.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #22
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duvalle's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblotted ➑️
i actually disagree...

and running the 1272 prior will hit 2500 too hard, hence i put it AFTERWARDS.
i had the same "problem". but when using a line-mic-pad you can hit the tranfsformers of the 1272 hard. i allways level the signal with a test tone ...

cheers.
Old 26th January 2009 | Show parent
  #23
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theblotted's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by duvalle ➑️
i had the same "problem". but when using a line-mic-pad you can hit the tranfsformers of the 1272 hard. i allways level the signal with a test tone ...

cheers.
input or output transfo? i suppose i can just keep output trim low before 2500...

what tonal difference do you hear when 1272 is in front instead of after?
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #24
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duvalle's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblotted ➑️
what tonal difference do you hear when 1272 is in front instead of after?
good point ... i never really tried the 1272 after the 2500.
using the 1272 as a starting point just seemed to be a natural thing to do imho.
my 2bus chain:
lavry da10 -> Fearn LP-1 -> 1272 -> Hammer / 2500 / 5500 -> Api A2D

how do you use the 1272 in your chain?

cheers.
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #25
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🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by duvalle ➑️
how do you use the 1272 in your chain?

cheers.
Lavry Blue DA --> API 2500 or dbx166 (Jim Williams mod) --> BAE 1272 --> Blue AD or Prism AD-124 (depending on the song)

sometimes i'll replace the 1272 with Sony DPS-V77 on a custom limiter setting, to get a certain sheen for more pop/electronic stuff. i was using Portico 5012 before i got the 1272.

no EQ, but when i do usually it's MDW on the Master before DA. been eyeing a Hammer tho...
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #26
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🎧 15 years
get the hammer .....

API 2500 + Hammer = SEXY LONG TIME
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #27
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Strobian's Avatar
 
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I think you would get a greater improvement in your sound with the 2500, then with better convertors and being without it. Conversion matters, but its seems the gains are small compared to the instant tightness the 2500 can bring. Obviously both would be the best, but if it were me I'd want the 2500. The 192 isn't exactly a bad unit, it may not be the best, but its usable for sure.
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #28
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TanTan's Avatar
 
🎧 15 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblotted ➑️
to OP, what i do is run the mix thru a 1272 afterwards to get it more round and warm sounding.
Really ?? old Neve 80 series channels (1073, 1064) has never worked for me on the 2 bus.. it always killed something important, way too much distortion and phase shifting.. it is big.. but since I'm mixing on a custom discrete transistor console maybe i already have the nice 2 harmonics.. but i remember trying to use the Neves for warming up computer mixes that I've got to master.. it didn't work also. don't get me wrong here.. I'm a HUGE Neve fan for what it does good, nothing can touch it for vocals and bass but i don't like what it adds and take out on the master.

You can try using the 33609 for a nicely colored 2 bus comp, it uses different amps which are more transparent than the 1272's but still more colored than the API's.
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #29
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🎧 15 years
Quote:
I think you would get a greater improvement in your sound with the 2500, then with better convertors and being without it. Conversion matters, but its seems the gains are small compared to the instant tightness the 2500 can bring. Obviously both would be the best, but if it were me I'd want the 2500.
I agree...the differences between converters are going to be much more subtle than the way a compressor will color your sound. If the 2500 isn't the one that's fine, but while I don't disgree that there are better converters than the 192 out there, it's still a good converter.
Old 27th January 2009 | Show parent
  #30
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🎧 10 years
What would you recommend that works in a similar fashion to the 2500 but is a little more colored? A Neve perhaps? I like what the 2500 does compression-wise for tightening, I just would like to hear a little more "color/vibe/mojo" whatever you want to call it.
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