There was no need to upgrade because they both have the latest OS. Usually I do this to all my synth, drum machines, processors but in this case it was not necessary.

Solder reflowing is exactly what it is, melt with a soldering iron each joint (and possibly add fresh solder) that needs it.
Generally if it is a relatively new device (10 years) I only reflow the moving parts which in time could be mechanically stressed like in/out connectors, switches, pots, encoders, etc.
If it is something like 10-25 years old I also reflow the whole PSU board just in case of possible cracks.
If it is 25 and older it depends on the condition but many times I reflow every single joint on every single PCB (which can be even thousands of solder pads).

Panasonic FC electrolytic capacitors are some of the best ones at a decent price.
In older gear I always replace the elcos with the FCs.

In this side of the world you rarely have access to second hand gear in mint condition (Ensoniqs are rare as hens teeth). So I'm used to get gear with some scratches on the case or rack ears. I like to restore gear not only to work as new but also to look like new so in many situations I repaint the cases.
Both of my DP4s were repainted (although they looked decent for their age).

This is rather inspiring. I think I'll do this treatment for my S/H DP4 - the one I didn't buy new back in the day, which is in mind condition! I purchased a spare some years back and its running an older OS and has had a hard life.. I think you've given me yet another project! hahahhahaaa Top work on yours. Post a pic if you can

Is there some sort of comparison shootout between DP/4, DP/4+, and DP Pro? Persons suggest that the 4 has a hum but has a more desirable grittines, and are less fond of the 4+ and Pro because they are cleaner, but if I'm going to get more noise I'd really like to see if the grit is justified.

LOL, who cares what they say.

Exactly! I need some "character" effects (reverb / delay are well taken care of) but I'd prefer to use my own ears to A/B over these broad claims that I may or may not agree with or even hear.

Hi,

I have a DP4+ that works well, but I'd like to perform a preventive maintenance as I read cap leaking can damage it badly.

I saw a kit on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/274267394962 and I'm wondering if it is worth it, or if the price difference would be big enough to open it myself and to list the different capacitors and voltage regulators and order them.

Did anyone here have any experience with this listing? Is there by chance any BOM already available ?

I don't think it's a stretch to imagine you could get 16 caps and 6 regulators for somewhat less than $145.

I don't even know what the point of replacing the regulators is, unless they're so underspecced or run so hot that they're doomed to failure. Never encountered that bit of information anywhere, however.

Either way, if you do it, you should drop a list of the capacitors here, I'm sure it will be helpful to many people, myself included.

I asked in another group if there were any BOM already available. If not, I'll do the listing myself and post it here.

A wild DP4+ is set to appear in my neck of the woods in Sweden! Gotta wait for shipping and all that, but I’m giddy with anticipation.

Now, that Eventide…

oh dear... make sure you replace all the leaking SMD capacitors ASAP. In addition to all the warnings about the DP4+ earlier in the thread, there is a really cool new thread over at GroupDIY: https://groupdiy.com/threads/ensoniq...rrosion.78087/ Good luck!

Thanks! I’ll go over it with a stereo microscope as soon as it arrives. SMD is no worry when it comes to repairs, thanks for the link!

Here is an track I made in FL studio and bounce sample / hihats through an Ensoniq DP4 The channel knobs on ensoniq is a pain to use, to propper make good stereo image
https://soundcloud.com/dullnessmusic/brightness

Suddenly Stockholm A local DP4 showed up in the classifieds. 500€ for a unit that made its way north via EBay Spain I was told. Snagged it as fast as I could. Now I have borged both a DP4+ and a classic DP4.

This will be a fun period in the studio. My GAS is almost satisfied for a little while - what’s up with that?

I have owned my DP4 (not plus) for about 35 years now. Has always worked perfectly, with the exception of two things:

• After powering on for about 15 minutes, the red peak LED for channel 1 begins gradually glowing, even with no inbound signal. The green signal LED works normally, when an inbound signal is present.

• In more recent years, the display has become sluggish; after changing to a different preset, or when changing a parameter, the display doesn't show the change instantaneously, it takes a half second or so to update.

I've tested all power supply levels as per the service manual, and they're all spot on. Visual inspection of the boards (power supply board, main board and display board) all show nothing amiss - no leaking caps, etc...

I can live with the LCD behavior the way it is - though I have seen someone advertising an OLED replacement for it: https://reverb.com/item/6657657-oled...-4-dp-4-dp-pro Anyone have experience with that? It's overpriced to buy from there, but if someone has part number and what mods are required, I could be convinced to try...

The peak LED is what I'm more interested in fixing though - any ideas as to where to look for that issue? Seems weird to only affect that one thing, and also without any relationship to the audio....

My LCD is sluggish for about 10 minutes after turning it on then is fine.

I’m running into a weird problem that I think is more me than the machine. I’m trying to run input 1 & 3 as two stereo fx units. So 1 is using A & B, 3 is using C & D. I had these running as stereo outs for phasing and reverbs but I changed the FX in B and it went to a mono out again. Any idea What am I doing wrong?

Make sure that the Config you're using is set up for 2 Sources. Then be sure that each Input is set up as Mono (i.e. "(1) Mono" and "(3) Mono", for the AB and CD Units respectively). The naming might be slightly different, this is from memory. When in 2 Source mode, you should only be able to have stereo outputs from the AB and CD groups.

IMHO, this is the toughest part of using the DP series of effects units - simply wrapping one's head around the various configuration options, and the distinction between physical inputs, the effect "Units", and how they interact (or not) with each other.

I hope to make this all much clearer in the new editor/librarian I'm now working on.

Thanks, I’m using it much more these days so hopefully it’ll sink in a bit.

I also find that when I get the stereo out working, one will be wet (L) and one semi dry (R). It’s a confusing machine but sounds so good. And you just reminded me of the iPad app I have for it!! That might help.

Hello

Hi all.
I might have spotted a DP/4 non plus but it has US voltage. Can this to be switched internally over to 220V European voltage?

Thanks,

What do you find different between the two versions?

I got the plus bought brand new in the 90's , sold it and today at least I have found another but non plus.

Mainly more presets and XLR on the DP4+. Soundwise not too much, I need to go over the SMD capacitors on the + as it has been fixed before. Now it’s quiet for a few minutes after power on, then there’s a faint noise on one channel. Has to be a busted cap…

I use it not as a High-end pristine effect, rather for creative coloration. So it fits in nice, but overall it sounds better than one could expect!

For the 'semi-dry' output, first things to check are (i) mix and volume settings, (ii) whether you have the units set to serial or parallel - that may play a role.

Did you notice any difference soundwise after recapping the unit? Some people say DP4 sound dark/take away highs.. so I was wondering if racapping will improve it.

Did not make any comparison before/after.
Changing the capacitors to something modern like low ESR Panasonic FCs will guarantee that the device will work at its maximum potential.
But don't forget that the DP4 is by default a warm and dark sounding machine.
Even if the upgrade would improve things a bit, the general sound of the DP4 is defined by the DSP software the DA converters and the analog circuit not the individual parts.

Would be awful if those Panasonic components or whatever changed the sound of it making it transparent as an Aphex compressor or plug ins.

I'm scouring Mouser for Panasonic FC SMD caps to replace on my DP/4+. Seems you can't get the FC. Are "general purpose" caps ok, or should I go with "high temp"? "Low Impedance?"