Quantcast
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX - Gearspace.com
The No.1 Website for Pro Audio
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX
Old 10th November 2015
  #1
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX

So I turned on my Virus earlier and its shafted.

LCD going light and Dark and LFO 1 & 2 led lights on.

Done a bit of research and found it can be the single brown 100μF 25V capacitor that is a common fault causing this very problem.

Is it a simple job to replace? I have basic soldering skills, but working on complex multi sided VA boards is not something I have attempted before.

Any advice appreciated
Old 10th November 2015
  #2
Lives for gear
 
Mcnulty's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
If you were closer ( Australia) I'd do it for you for free.
You could use my Trident while I fix it for you
Old 10th November 2015
  #3
Lives for gear
 
StepLogik's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
If you aren't comfortable replacing that cap, take it to your local TV repair shop and the tech there will replace it for you for cheap - usually less than the shop hourly rate. If you can pull the board out and just take that to the shop it will be even cheaper.
Old 10th November 2015
  #4
Lives for gear
 
Mcnulty's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
I have repaired the pots on a TI2 and is really well designed and built. Quite easy to work on if you have solder skills
Old 10th November 2015 | Show parent
  #5
Lives for gear
 
Mcnulty's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by StepLogik ➡️
If you aren't comfortable replacing that cap, take it to your local TV repair shop and the tech there will replace it for you for cheap - usually less than the shop hourly rate. If you can pull the board out and just take that to the shop it will be even cheaper.
Yeah this is a good idea if you can get a tech to change it for cheap. Take lots of pics during the process
Old 10th November 2015 | Show parent
  #6
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcnulty ➡️
If you were closer ( Australia) I'd do it for you for free.
You could use my Trident while I fix it for you
If Heineken made GS members .......
Old 10th November 2015
  #7
Lives for gear
 
🎧 10 years
Should be super easy, I replaced a bunch of encoders on the Indigo I owned. You'll spend more time taking the thing apart.
Old 10th November 2015 | Show parent
  #8
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by kslight ➡️
Should be super easy, I replaced a bunch of encoders on the Indigo I owned. You'll spend more time taking the thing apart.
I'll take the small motherboard out and have a peek underneath. Hopefully it will be just 2 solder points. Will order the cap tomorrow.
Attached Thumbnails
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX-b.jpg  

Last edited by flat; 10th November 2015 at 10:53 PM..
Old 11th November 2015
  #9
Lives for gear
 
mikefellh's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Sorry it had to happen to you, but for me it's good as I haven't powered on my Virus B for a long time, so I'll have to have a look at that cap before the next time I power it on.

I wonder though WHY it blows so commonly...will probably replace it with one with a higher voltage capability; shouldn't affect its operation as long as the capacity is the same.
Old 11th November 2015
  #10
Lives for gear
 
John Difool's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
I just made that fix 1 week ago. Very easy. Just ask If you have any questions.

I am very happy for this common fault on the B. It allowed me to pick up a dead Virus Indigo for 130€ Replaced the cap, now fully working

Sold my KC for a good price months ago and kinda a missed it a bit. Now happy again

Last edited by John Difool; 11th November 2015 at 08:23 AM..
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #11
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Difool ➡️
I just made that fix 1 week ago. Very easy. Just ask If you have any questions.

I am very happy for this common fault on the B. It allowed me to pick up a dead Virus Indigo for 130€ Replaced the cap, now fully working

Sold my KC for a good price months ago and kinda a missed it a bit. Now happy again
Excellent. Although I can't be sure its that cap, it does sound promising, and the symptoms seem to be a common one.
Old 11th November 2015
  #12
Lives for gear
 
John Difool's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Ya, it's pretty certain it's that cap. Same symptoms.

Make shure + is facing the right way. That's all there is to screw up I would say.
Opening the key versions can be a bit troublesome, dunno about the rack versions.
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #13
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Difool ➡️
Ya, it's pretty certain it's that cap. Same symptoms.

Make shure + is facing the right way. That's all there is to screw up I would say.
Opening the key versions can be a bit troublesome, dunno about the rack versions.
Cheers.

Got the cap. Unfortunatley my soldering iron has disappeared. Will have to borrow a mates.

Do you recommend de-soldering the cap out, or snap it off first to avoid heat damage?
Attached Thumbnails
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX-20151111_132107.jpg  
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #14
Gear Maniac
 
mik303's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcnulty ➡️
If you were closer ( Australia) I'd do it for you for free.
You could use my Trident while I fix it for you
Ding Ding Ding! GS member of the year has just been found!
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #15
Lives for gear
 
EDGEK8D's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StepLogik ➡️
If you aren't comfortable replacing that cap, take it to your local TV repair shop and the tech there will replace it for you for cheap - usually less than the shop hourly rate. If you can pull the board out and just take that to the shop it will be even cheaper.
Do TV repair shops still exist?
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #16
Lives for gear
 
StepLogik's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by EDGEK8D ➡️
Do TV repair shops still exist?
Any tech repair shop although I guess both are becoming more rare these days as more and more consumer electronics are designed (and priced) to be disposable.
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #17
Lives for gear
 
John Difool's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth
Do you recommend de-soldering the cap out, or snap it off first to avoid heat damage?
I suppose a pro would remove the tin with a solder sucker or suck wire. If both holes are filled with tin it's difficult to get both pins on the new cap in.

You could snap it of and desolder one pin at a time I guess.

When I started to heat and pull mine fell apart and I could remove one pin at a time. Not so pro But it worked


http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=43108.0
Old 11th November 2015
  #18
Lives for gear
 
🎧 5 years
This interested me also mine hasn't worked in a year.... Sent it to this place in New Jersey three wave music and they couldn't fix they actually made it worst it doesn't even turn on now. I'm actually going to attempt these 2 things.
Old 11th November 2015
  #19
Lives for gear
 
🎧 5 years
Just opened mine and on that capictor I see signs of corrosion gonna order and hopefully brings this synth back to life.
Attached Thumbnails
VIRUS B 100μF 25V capacitor FIX-image_8201_0.jpg  
Old 11th November 2015
  #20
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
I wonder why that lone cap is brown? The replacement I bought matches the other blue ones.

I remember when I was a pc engineer, there was a mass batch of motherboards we used that used cheap brown caps and nearly every single one popped at under a year. Think they were Gigabyte boards. Nightmare changing tons of motherboards and configuring pcs to accept the change <groan!!!>.
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #21
Lives for gear
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth ➡️
I wonder why that lone cap is brown? The replacement I bought matches the other blue ones.

I remember when I was a pc engineer, there was a mass batch of motherboards we used that used cheap brown caps and nearly every single one popped at under a year. Think they were Gigabyte boards. Nightmare changing tons of motherboards and configuring pcs to accept the change <groan!!!>.
If this works... i owe you a beer mate!!! Felt pretty horrible having this thing sit here like a paper weight.
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #22
Moderator
 
Don Solaris's Avatar
 
4 Reviews written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth ➡️
Do you recommend de-soldering the cap out, or snap it off first to avoid heat damage?
If you don't have a pump just pull it slightly while heating both pins.

Take care for orientation (positive - negative) of the capacitor.
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #23
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Solaris ➡️
If you don't have a pump just pull it slightly while heating both pins.

Take care for orientation (positive - negative) of the capacitor.
Thanks for advice Don.

This VA board is much tighter then stuff I have attempted before.
Old 11th November 2015
  #24
Lives for gear
 
Mcnulty's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Caps are best left intact when desoldering. Solder sucker clears most of the solder and cleans the hole up for the new pot.
Best to add a little bit of new solder to the old pot connection just to heat it slightly and get the old solder flowing. Not too much heat.
Then heat up again and use solder sucker. Do both sides then the cap should pull out, If a little tight just walk it out.
Let board cool .Then clean up holes for new cap. Check orientation before removal and install new cap same way.
Add tack of solder to one leg to hold in place. Then cut leg of other side about 1mm past board then solder neatly.
Add just enough solder to get it seated. DO NOT BLOW to cool. wait 10 secs then do the other side.
Reassemble. Have beer and celebrate before switching on.
Dulls the pain when it does not turn on and synth is relegated to old wardrobe never to be seen again.
If synth fires up and works perfectly have another two beers and lose 6 hours of your time getting lost in sonic wonders of your old synth that you never new existed.
Congratulate yourself for being as good as any $200 an hour tech and thinking to yourself The virus is better than the Trident and I saved @#$!loads not having to travel to Australia
Old 11th November 2015 | Show parent
  #25
Gear Guru
 
Yoozer's Avatar
 
1 Review written
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth ➡️
I remember when I was a pc engineer, there was a mass batch of motherboards we used that used cheap brown caps and nearly every single one popped at under a year. Think they were Gigabyte boards.
Loads of motherboards had this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Count yourself lucky; it's a common part you might fix yourself, instead of some kind of unobtanium chip.
Old 12th November 2015
  #26
Lives for gear
 
mikefellh's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
If you want to see how to solder/desolder, there's (probably) lots of tutorials on YouTube.
Old 12th November 2015 | Show parent
  #27
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcnulty ➡️
Caps are best left intact when desoldering. Solder sucker clears most of the solder and cleans the hole up for the new pot.
Best to add a little bit of new solder to the old pot connection just to heat it slightly and get the old solder flowing. Not too much heat.
Then heat up again and use solder sucker. Do both sides then the cap should pull out, If a little tight just walk it out.
Let board cool .Then clean up holes for new cap. Check orientation before removal and install new cap same way.
Add tack of solder to one leg to hold in place. Then cut leg of other side about 1mm past board then solder neatly.
Add just enough solder to get it seated. DO NOT BLOW to cool. wait 10 secs then do the other side.
Reassemble. Have beer and celebrate before switching on.
Dulls the pain when it does not turn on and synth is relegated to old wardrobe never to be seen again.
If synth fires up and works perfectly have another two beers and lose 6 hours of your time getting lost in sonic wonders of your old synth that you never new existed.
Congratulate yourself for being as good as any $200 an hour tech and thinking to yourself The virus is better than the Trident and I saved @#$!loads not having to travel to Australia


Can't do cap change till sat when I get mates decent solder iron to borrow. Will let you know result and have beers and wardrobe on standby.
Old 12th November 2015 | Show parent
  #28
Lives for gear
 
mikefellh's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth ➡️
I wonder why that lone cap is brown? The replacement I bought matches the other blue ones.
BE AWARE that some brown electrolytic capacitors are high-temperature capacitors designed for devices that reach a certain temperature, like inside a CRT TV. I once had to get a pair of replacement caps for my parents' TV, and they had to be rated for 105 degrees celsius...the old caps were brown, and the replacement ones were red. If they were replaced with ordinary capacitors they would quickly dry out and fail again.

Most ordinary caps just have voltage, capacitance, and polarity printed on them, but these ones also specify maximum temperature.
Old 12th November 2015 | Show parent
  #29
Lives for gear
 
Mcnulty's Avatar
 
🎧 5 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat earth ➡️


Can't do cap change till sat when I get mates decent solder iron to borrow. Will let you know result and have beers and wardrobe on standby.
Take your time. No need to rush this job. The virus is well designed and easy to disassemble. Take lots of phone photos to help put back together. A good iron is a must to do a good job. Also use lead solder if you can. Lower melting point and flows better. Silver solder is best for mechanical strength components like pots.
The more you do the easier it becomes. Patience and just the right amount of heat is the key to a good job.
Another job you could tackle later is to replace the filter caps on the power supply of your older synths and replace batteries with solder less ones.
Old 12th November 2015 | Show parent
  #30
Lives for gear
 
flat's Avatar
 
🎧 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcnulty ➡️
Take your time. No need to rush this job. The virus is well designed and easy to disassemble. Take lots of phone photos to help put back together. A good iron is a must to do a good job. Also use lead solder if you can. Lower melting point and flows better. Silver solder is best for mechanical strength components like pots.
The more you do the easier it becomes. Patience and just the right amount of heat is the key to a good job.
Another job you could tackle later is to replace the filter caps on the power supply of your older synths and replace batteries with solder less ones.
Thanks. I have done a lot of solder jobs on my older synths in the past so am quite happy to attempt it. Just never done a more condensed/populated VA board. Because everything is closer together and a lot of sensitive cpu's etc, i'm more weary.
📝 Reply

Similar Threads

Thread / Thread Starter Replies / Views Last Post
replies: 201 views: 75251
Avatar for lambshain
lambshain 12th October 2021
replies: 50 views: 6833
Avatar for Teknobeam
Teknobeam 16th September 2014
replies: 297 views: 31952
Avatar for Holofonze
Holofonze 2 weeks ago
Topic:
Post Reply

Welcome to the Gearspace Pro Audio Community!

Registration benefits include:
  • The ability to reply to and create new discussions
  • Access to members-only giveaways & competitions
  • Interact with VIP industry experts in our guest Q&As
  • Access to members-only sub forum discussions
  • Access to members-only Chat Room
  • Get INSTANT ACCESS to the world's best private pro audio Classifieds for only USD $20/year
  • Promote your eBay auctions and Reverb.com listings for free
  • Remove this message!
You need an account to post a reply. Create a username and password below and an account will be created and your post entered.


 
 
Slide to join now Processing…

Forum Jump
Forum Jump